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Bike started great this afternoon. Rode 100 miles up and down 2 mountain passes, stopped for gas, would not start - when I push the start button I can hear it struggle, it turns engine over once then stops and dash lights go out. When I let off the start button, dash lights come back on. New battery with clean terminal connections. Got a push start - rode home, put battery charger on it, let it cool all the way down, same thing. Push start button, struggles to turn over once, then dash lights go out. Let go of button, dash lights go on.

I've read through a number of threads but can't find the exact match to symptoms above. 1987 Aspencade with 90,000 miles, just installed new E3's.

Suggestions please oh wise ones?

Thank you.
(04-06-2014, 09:10 PM)87 aspy idaho Wrote: [ -> ]Bike started great this afternoon. Rode 100 miles up and down 2 mountain passes, stopped for gas, would not start - when I push the start button I can hear it struggle, it turns engine over once then stops and dash lights go out. When I let off the start button, dash lights come back on. New battery with clean terminal connections. Got a push start - rode home, put battery charger on it, let it cool all the way down, same thing. Push start button, struggles to turn over once, then dash lights go out. Let go of button, dash lights go on.

I've read through a number of threads but can't find the exact match to symptoms above. 1987 Aspencade with 90,000 miles, just installed new E3's.

Suggestions please oh wise ones?

Thank you.

The dash lights going out is an indication of either limited current flow or a massive current draw.
1. Check your battery cables for corrosion inside the insulation. If you find any, replace the cables.
2. Check the starter for excessive current draw due to shorts, dirty/worn brushes, etc.
(04-07-2014, 07:59 AM)PurpleGL1200 Wrote: [ -> ]
(04-06-2014, 09:10 PM)87 aspy idaho Wrote: [ -> ]Bike started great this afternoon. Rode 100 miles up and down 2 mountain passes, stopped for gas, would not start - when I push the start button I can hear it struggle, it turns engine over once then stops and dash lights go out. When I let off the start button, dash lights come back on. New battery with clean terminal connections. Got a push start - rode home, put battery charger on it, let it cool all the way down, same thing. Push start button, struggles to turn over once, then dash lights go out. Let go of button, dash lights go on.

I've read through a number of threads but can't find the exact match to symptoms above. 1987 Aspencade with 90,000 miles, just installed new E3's.

Suggestions please oh wise ones?

Thank you.

The dash lights going out is an indication of either limited current flow or a massive current draw.
1. Check your battery cables for corrosion inside the insulation. If you find any, replace the cables.
2. Check the starter for excessive current draw due to shorts, dirty/worn brushes, etc.

I can't tell you what's wrong but I can tell you a new starter will fix it. My bike did almost exactly as you describe. I was very lucky to start my bike after a 15 min. ride. I put a new starter in an Shazam. All fixed. I am from Kitchener ON. The starter cost me $160.00 and I put it in myself.
OK, thanks. I'll dig into the wires and advise.
i would bet that cleaning the starter armature and new brushes would most likely take care of problem,i would suggest going that route before buying a new starter

1060dsl

ditto on the starter and or cleaning it ~~
I found my starter struggling after riding the bike and the engine getting hot.
Checking the battery, (voltage, specific gravity of each cell) all checked out good.
Cables were also good, clean, tight, and continuous.
Before removing the starter, I found I could get the starter to start the hot engine by opening the throttle all the way, then hitting the starter button.
That worked every time.
Upon removing the starter motor, I found the planetarium gears were pushing around some old, almost clay like grease!
Brushes were good, cleaned out carbon dust from brushes, old grease and repacked with fresh, bench tested, reinstalled and that was many years and starts ago and I haven’t had a problem since.

I too would consider a rebuilding of what you have before replacing the entire assembly.

My .02
Also check the ground to frame wire from the battery. If you want to isolate the starter from everything else on the bike just use booster cables from a car ground the black to the frame and press the red onto the copper lug on the starter. If it cranks just fine the problem will most likely be with something on the bike like a bad ground, failed relay, connectors, etc.
Thanks all for your advice. Found the plastic around the 4 prong plug in the first 30amp fuse assembly was melted. Broke the plastic off, cleaned the very corroded prongs, put back together with die electric grease, sealed with tape. Also took apart every other positive/negative connection I could get my hands on and cleaned.

Starts like a champ, just in time for the weekend!! Thanks again.
(04-12-2014, 06:47 AM)87 aspy idaho Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks all for your advice. Found the plastic around the 4 prong plug in the first 30amp fuse assembly was melted. Broke the plastic off, cleaned the very corroded prongs, put back together with die electric grease, sealed with tape. Also took apart every other positive/negative connection I could get my hands on and cleaned.

Starts like a champ, just in time for the weekend!! Thanks again.

That's good to hear. Enjoy!
before the solenoid connector problem rears its head again you might want to make this mod

http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/gl1200/sh...?tid=10232