GL1200 GOLDWINGS

Hello all.
Today, I drove down to southern Kansas and picked up another 84 Aspencade. I don't intend on making this bike one of my riders, but instead it will be a parts donor bike.
I rode it home, a little under 200 miles.
When I talked to the guy, he told me that he thought the carbs were gummed up and that the tank was getting a slight varnishy smell to it. He said he drained the gas that was in it, filled it with fresh gas and put carb cleaner in the tank.
I looked the bike over, and saw enough parts that I could get a return on the 350 I spent for it.
I took it to the nearest gas station, put some Sea Foam in the tank, and filled it up.
The thing ran but did a lot of missing and horrible acceleration.
I got on the interstate highway, and I could get it to 80 on level ground, but when I hit even a slight hill, it would go to 60 wide open.
After about 100 miles, I stopped and filled it up again, again adding Sea Foam.
I have to say, it seems to be running a lot better, but still has terrible acceleration. Also, it still has a miss to it, but not like when I had first taken off on it.
What acceleration it does have reminds me of the cars back when I was a teen, in the old days, of having the vacuum advance hose either off, or the advance not working at all.
Does this still sound like carb issues, or possibly something else I need to look at?
Thanks a million for any help and suggestions you might have.

I would have to say yes sounds like it to me. I have a 84 aspencade that I got from some one. He let the bike sit for acouple years and it did not run very good either . I put sea foam in the tank an it did run better but not right. I did take the carb off an rebuild them. They looked bad on the inside it made me think how it even ran. I have not yet got them back on the bike do to some health reasons. But I sure it will run better. I would even change the fuel filter.

Poor acceleration can come from a number of items:
bad (old) gas
dirty/clogged fuel filter
poor performing fuel pump
collapsed fuel lines
restricted jets (at speed, the primary jets contribute 15% or so of the fuel)
floats set incorrectly

but one place folks forget to look is in the top of the carburetor.
The throttle needle needs to float up and down without hesitation or restriction.
Torn or incorrectly set diaphragms can cause throttle hesitation.
Residue on either the throttle piston or on the throttle piston wall can cause hesitation.
Work one carburetor at a time.
Removing the carburetor cap (those small screws can be easily damaged when trying to remove them), hold the cap down because the spring underneath can force the cap off. Remove the cap, remove the spring and carefully (and I mean carefully) separate the diaphragm lip from the carburetor body. Don't damage the rubber!
Slowly extract the throttle needle piston from the top of the carburetor. Remember, it might be sticking.
Examine the throttle piston walls and the walls of the cylinder you pulled it out of.
If there is any gas residue (usually created when a bike sits dormant with gas in the float bowls), I have removed the gas residue with gas. Warning: work in a well ventilated area, no open flames or smoking!!!!!
Clean all piston wall and cylinder wall surfaces, also clean the needle of residue.
Reassemble in reverse order making sure the lip of the diaphragm is seated properly in the groove of the carburetor body, and then test the movement of the throttle piston.
Stick your finger in the intake side of the carburetor (don't use ANYTHING which can damage the piston). Raise the piston. It should go up without any restriction. Let go of the piston and the piston should come down smoothly and stop with a 'snap' sound. Raise and lower repeatedly until you are convinced the throttle needle piston is gliding up and down without restriction.
Remember, this glides up with a difference of atmospheric pressure so the slightest amount of restriction can cause a hesitation in engine performance.
Work one carburetor at a time.
Take your time.

Have fun!

-Ride On