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Hey gents....My 85 LTD just stopped starting last week. All I get when I hit the button is a "click" sound coming from the starter solenoid. I have replaced the starter solenoid, the bone fuse, checked all the fuses I can think of and find. I have lights, radio etc. Just no juice past the starter solenoid to the starter. Where should I be looking? Am I missing a relay somewhere? I have already modifided the starter solenoid fuses with the addition of the blade fuse mod. I did this several years ago. Thanks in <!-- e --><a href="mailto:advance....gwltd85@yahoo.com">advance....gwltd85@yahoo.com</a><!-- e -->

Terry
Watching the voltmeter by the radio, does it drop to about 10 volt's or so when you hit the starter? If so, the starter might be locked up if it's not turning the engine over...

Quote:Just no juice past the starter solenoid to the starter.

Have you taken the starter side cable off the selinoid and verified this?
Try using a set of jumper cables, find a good ground on the frame for the black end then with the other end of the cables connected to a good battery touch the red end to the lug on the starter and let us know what happens. This will test the starter itself.
Lets see....I will check the voltage drop later this evening...If this determines that the starter might be stuck....what would be the corrective action? I also will check on the voltage at the solenoid. Vic....when you say "Lug" what are you refering to and where do I find it? Thanks guys for all your help...Hope this does not turn in to sour milk before its done....LOL

Terry
The lug is located on the outside of the starter, looks like a bolt under a rubber cover, you'll see a large electrical wire attached to it. If you apply 12 volts to this lug from an external power source, ie: car battery or spare battery the starter should spin the engine over no problem, if the engine doesn't spin the starter is at fault, if it does spin the engine then you need to look at the starter relay, start switch, neutral switch and all the associated wiring to find the problem. Applying power to the starter is just a quick way of determining where the problem is.
Just checked the voltage drop on the meter next to the radio....No drop...went from 10,7 to 11.2...due to the head lamp going off I am sure...so I guess the starter is not stuck....Will look for the lug when we get back from the grocery store..Thanks Vic..I think I can find it now...Just in case.....what does the starter relay look like and where might it be located. I have been having some issues with the neutral switch for the last few months...Even in neutral, I had to hold in the clutch to start. Hardly ever got a green neutral light in neutral gear. Might be something to look at....I do however get a green light now....
The starter relay is located to the right of the battery as you stand facing the left side of the bike. It has several wires coming out the top front and one large battery cable on each side of it. Check all the plastic and wiring for signs of melting as this could be the cause of the no start problem.
Well...Not a happy camper here Vic... No joy connecting the starter directly to a car battery. Replacing it is not something I can handle since the first step according to the Clymers book is to remove the engine. So, I am going to be at the mercy of a shop,,IF, and that is a big IF, I can find one here to even work on it. Might be an LTD for sale....Thanks for all your promt assistance

Terry
Another question....I am assuming that the bike would start if I could get it rolling down a hill and pop the clutch in third gear??

Guest

Terry, The engine DOES NOT have to be removed to replace the starter. Poorboy
Poorboy...I sure hope you are right.....Will find out Monday when I can get ahold of my mechanic....I laid down on the garage floor and it looks like something I would rather not handle. Not enough space, time, patience and proper tools I imagine. I usually do my own work but am also conscious of my limitations...Thanks for the ray of hope...

Terry
Are you certain that you had all the cables connected correctly when you tested the starter, just checking. If it didn't even spark during the test you can be pretty much assured that the brushes are worn out. Removing the starter and renewing the brushes is not too big of a deal. Just drop the left exhaust manifold, removing the inside rear stud by double nutting it then remove the starter bolts and pry the starter forward and then it just about falls out. The you remove the end screws from the starter and the cap comes off allowing access to the brushes. Sounds like a big deal but really it's not.
If by "all the cables connected correctly" you mean pos and neg to pos and neg of car battery and neg to engine mount bolt and pos to starter lug...then yes. Lots of sparks from the metal I happened to brush on the way in to the starter lug..but nothing when touched to the lug. Will go and re-examine removing the starter. Today the humidity and the temp are really close and that is 93 so going to wait until its cooler...
Terry be sure to hold the nut under the copper lug when you take the cable off,it takes a thin wench.
(just kdding here) ^Smile^ how thin of a wench does it take? I would guess the younger wenches would be thinner than the older wenches. :d
(I am just cruising the site, catching up on some reading)
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