1984 GL1200. I am trying to find some information on the noise my lh valves are making. The engine would occasionally make the noise. It had no pattern to it at all and would sometimes go days or weeks between hearing it.
I changed my belts a few weeks ago. Everything is lined up and the engine runs good and strong. The tapping happens more frequently now, but still with absolutely no sense of rhythm at all! Maybe a little when starting, maybe not. Sometimes when hot, sometimes not.
I know there is no adjustment to hydraulic rockers. I am running Honda 10w-40. The mileage of the bike (to use the word 'indeterminate' is hopelessly optimistic) may need a heavier oil? I'm not trying to get an oil war going, I just am not familiar with these engines as this is my first wing really that I have ridden for any considerable amount of time...
10w/40 is what's supposed to be in there. Leave it alone. Going heavier will make it worse. Going to a lighter weight won't give you the protection you need.
At this point, drain out just a little oil and add back roughly 4oz of Marvel Mystery oil to the crankcase. Run it for several hundred miles to clean out the engine / lifters and see if the noise calms down. Then change the oil and filter again using 10w/40. If noise is still present, then a lifter / valve adjustment will be needed.
The lifters ARE adjustable for that engine, even though they are hydraulic. The service manual explains how to do this.
Sometimes a strong total fuel system cleaner such as Chevron Techtron, will clean up the valves enough to restore a less lash condition. But like I said...Sometimes....
i could have sworn i read that the 1200 uses 20w50 :-\ I could be wrong but that is what i am running and Taarna runs like a champ
Honda GL1200 service manual say's 10w/40. Most Honda motorcycles are factory recommended at 10-40. Don't hold me to it, but I think it's stamped on the engine also. Most are.
Yep your right, don't tend to think of looking on the bike for info. The sticker says 10-40 SE or SF grade .
actually honda says that 20-50W is acceptable grade of oil from 32 deg to 100+ plus
only multigrade oil that they dont rcecomend is 10-30W above 85 deg
the charts are in all there service manuals and owners books for the 1200
Honda Service 84-87 page 3-12
vidiir Wrote:1984 GL1200. I am trying to find some information on the noise my lh valves are making. The engine would occasionally make the noise. It had no pattern to it at all and would sometimes go days or weeks between hearing it.
I changed my belts a few weeks ago. Everything is lined up and the engine runs good and strong. The tapping happens more frequently now, but still with absolutely no sense of rhythm at all! Maybe a little when starting, maybe not. Sometimes when hot, sometimes not.
I know there is no adjustment to hydraulic rockers. I am running Honda 10w-40. The mileage of the bike (to use the word 'indeterminate' is hopelessly optimistic) may need a heavier oil? I'm not trying to get an oil war going, I just am not familiar with these engines as this is my first wing really that I have ridden for any considerable amount of time...
I would be mounting an oil pressure gauge on the engine and watching it closely. The 1200 engine is very reliable, but, if a previous owner did not take good care of the bike he/she may have allowed coolant to circulate in the oil or just never bothered changing the oil leading to the possibility of worn crankshaft bearings and oil pumps which drastically lowers oil pressure. Checking the oil pressure first would always be my initial step in diagnosing a GL1200 lifter noise problem.
Im glad for the replies, thank you all! I will try the mystery oil and get a pressure gauge. Though the bike looks like hell I think it was at least semi-taken care of mechanically as the PO rode it from North Texas to Kansas to trade it in.
i could think of several reasons why i'd want to travel out of state to trade in a mc
Siberiancat Wrote:i could have sworn i read that the 1200 uses 20w50 :-\ I could be wrong but that is what i am running and Taarna runs like a champ
Check your owner's manual; engine oil viscocity need is determined by temperature and usage, 10w30 for very cold weather and short trips, 10w40 for in between and 20w50 for hot temps and sustained high performance usage. I used to run 20w50 in my Wing but since I started using Amsoil I find that I can run 10w40 because the synthetic does not break down at high temps and the lower viscocity gives me a little better gas mileage.
MMO is good to use. You can also try some Seafoam. I had the same issue with the lifter noise on the left side. I ran some Seafoam a few times for about 50 or so EASY miles then changed the oil and filter. So far this year I have not heard the noise. It will also help clean the sludge buildup around the starter sprag clutch.
I have had intermittent valve noise but now it got quite bad... My oil pressure light came on so as a test with the wing full of oil, I took my oil filter off to see if it was pumping oil but nothing is coming out at all... I've tried flushing with sea foam - and with Marvel Mystery oil prior to the oil light coming on but I am still getting nothing... any suggestions besides pulling the oil pump? I could also use a little guidance on where to start taking it apart... Is this behind the front case directly behind the oil filter?
No oil pressure can be from a bad oil pump or a broken oil pump chain or the oil pick up screen could be blocked. the easy way to test the oil pump chain is to drain the coolant, pull the lower hose connection cover and turn the water pump blades. the water pump should not spin! if it does then you could have a broken oil pump chain, or a sheared oil pump shaft.
but the oil pump is in the front, getting to that is the same as what you would do to change out a water pump. but it connects to the chain in the rear..means the motor has to come out.
(01-21-2013, 12:13 AM)paradise97402 Wrote: [ -> ]No oil pressure can be from a bad oil pump or a broken oil pump chain or the oil pick up screen could be blocked. the easy way to test the oil pump chain is to drain the coolant, pull the lower hose connection cover and turn the water pump blades. the water pump should not spin! if it does then you could have a broken oil pump chain, or a sheared oil pump shaft.
but the oil pump is in the front, getting to that is the same as what you would do to change out a water pump. but it connects to the chain in the rear..means the motor has to come out.
Thanks for the reply! The water pump blades will not turn by hand but they turn when the motor is turned. so then it should be either the pump or the screen. Where is the screen accessible from?
A can of seafoam in the engine oil (you may have to drain a little oil) for 300 miles prior to oil change will clear a lot of junk out of the engine.
several long distance riders I know and myself use Chevron Delo 400 15-40
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