Full Version: Float valve removal and operation
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Hi everyone, I removed the carb bank, opened the float bowl cover and it is nasty in there. It is green and has crud. I will post pictures later when I get home.

My question is how do you separate the float valve from the float valve seat? Do you just pull? I unscrewed the float valve seat from the carb but with all the crap in there I don't want to pull hard and break something.

Also, the manual talks about inspecting the operation of the float valve and look for grooves and nick. What am I suppose to look for as far as operation?

You might find something just like this when you pull it out: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href=""></a><!-- m --> The float valve, if in good condition, should literally fall out of it's seat when the float pivot pin is removed, but, dirt and corrosion can seize it into place. Do not machine the float valve seat to clean it just use carb cleaner, soft cloth, air and soak time. If you cannot clean the float seat properly I advise replacing it in the interest of saving many headaches down the road.

What you need to look for is that the float can move without any binding or restrictions whatsoever. The float should rotate on the pin freely and make certain that the float does not touch the sides of the float bowl. Any stickyness can and will cause flooding and/or poor drivability or it could even cause the crankcase to fill with gasoline causing a hydraulic lock when you crank the engine with the starter.
Here is my pictures from 1 carb, they are all like that. the float valve sure don't fall out, I pull a little and no movement. Carb cleaner it will be...

By the way, I have heard to soak in pinesol, coke carb cleaner and boiling them. So I did that with 3 float bowl cover (except the carb cleaner) and the boiling was the best... Pinesol was close behind but soaked it for 12-16 hours. Boiling for 17-20 minutes and voila. For all the processes, I used a tooth brush to help cleaning.

So I am sold to bowl I think.
Thanks admin, this the best explanation I got out of 2 forums\sites.

I appreciate.

You are most welcome Andre. We are here to help.
[attachment=0]Ok, here is my evening: I decided to boil my float valves to clean them. It worked for the float bowl covers so I figured why not. They were nasty and the floats valves were seized in the float seat. 10-12 minutes of boiling and I was able to pull the valve out. Boil them 5 more minutes of boiling and them I used my advanced cleaning kit. The tooth brush first, Them I used the tooth picks (I figured it would not damage/scratch the seat since it is soft) to remove the thicker stuff. I then finished with the Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol to finish cleaning the inside of the seat.[attachment=1]
I guess I will have to polish them a little but the valve move freely in and out of the seat so fairly happy. I did them 1 at a time so I don't mix and match the parts and carbs.
I am fairly happy with my evening work. I guess I have to inspect the bevel part to see if they are scored and such.

Boiling rocks!
Looking pretty good so far.

If the neoprene (rubber) valve tips are quite hard or they have deep wear grooves from the seats I would seriously consider replacing them to avoid future hassles. You'll end up spending about $80 - $100. for a Honda set but it would be worth the investment.
They don't seem too hard but I have to get a magnifying glass (or find mine) to check for tip damage. To cheapest I found for an OEM float valve assembly was $39.92. So will see. If I have to I will. It will probably have to wait until Thursday.