+- GL1200 GOLDWINGS (http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/gl1200)
+-- Forum: TECH CENTER (http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/gl1200/forumdisplay.php?fid=39)
+--- Forum: ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION, FINAL DRIVE (http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/gl1200/forumdisplay.php?fid=16)
+--- Thread: I try at changing timing belts (/showthread.php?tid=8106)
I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-01-2011
On my newly acquired '86 Aspencade, I decided to change the belts. The previous owner had it for 4 years & he said he did not change them. The bike only has 36k for miles, but I didn't want any surprises.
So my take on changing the belts is very easy, about a 2 to 3 on a 10 scale. The ACT of GETTING to the belts rate about a 15 / 10 scale. I was never able to completely remove the radiator. I could see how to get the over flow tube off. I don't think a 5 year old could get his hand in that area. So I just left it hanging, but I was able to get to the cover bolts. Second problem, I broke off the inside right bolt. Tomorrow I will drill & re-tap it.
I have a couple of questions. 1: HOW do you get to the radiator cap to fill it? I opened the compartment above the gas tank & I removed the toll tray (to get to the air filter) But I don't see the radiator cap. 2: How dose one disconnect the overflow tube. I need to remove the radiator so I can drill out the busted bolt.
BTW, the belts I took off had Honda markings on them & the belt deflecton was roughly 1".
Thank's, Carl
Re: I try at changing timing belts - bluewing - 04-01-2011
To get the rad cap off I take the false tank off and it is on the right side. Getting the cap off can be a pain but it does come off, they don;t give you much room.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-01-2011
Okay, I got the radiator out. I was looking at the false tank & it doesn't seam to budge. What does it take to remove it? Do I have to take the front fairing completely off?
Carl.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - neoracer - 04-01-2011
LOL welcome to the Goldwing world,first thing in the instruction manual should be "remove seat and tank" because except for maybe putting air in tires everything leads there
1) first on each side of seat there is a allen bolt to remove.then pull seat back, up and off
2) pull battery cover and right cover
3) pull the covers off left and right pockets,four screws each pocket and pull out out
4)pull off fork covers,open "tank" and remove tool tray if you have one"
5)in front there are two ten mm bolts to remove,rear sides there are two
6) grab tank from wherever ,pull back up and front up and off
after awhile its a five minute job,maybe ten or less back on
pretty much everything you will require you to probably pull tank frequently,after awhile its like brushing your teeth,first couple its like pulling them
you are now a classic goldwing owner,you do have a can of pledge right? :d
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-01-2011
Thank's for the step by step noeracer.
neoracer Wrote:you are now a classic goldwing owner,you do have a can of pledge right? :d
Will "Lemon Fresh" work? :-
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-01-2011
galaxyhunter Wrote:Thank's for the step by step noeracer.
neoracer Wrote:you are now a classic goldwing owner,you do have a can of pledge right? :d
Will "Lemon Fresh" work? :-
This ad from the 50's says it all...<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i5J6AzCt0g">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6i5J6AzCt0g</a><!-- m -->
Lemons were added later. :d
Re: I try at changing timing belts - unionjack - 04-01-2011
To access the radiator cap turn the handlebars full left lock, now stand on the right side of the bike facing the back of the bike and reach down beside the steering column with your right hand.
To fill it i use a funnel with about 12" of garden hose attached to it, slightly pared narrower at the other end so it will fit into the fill neck of the radiator.
Reinstall the cap in the same way you removed it, although my wife can reinstall it easier than I can due to her smaller hands.
This is a lot easier and faster than removing the false tank.
Be sure to burp the radiator and top off before installing the cap.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Roleketu - 04-02-2011
And there's two presses and turns or clicks to get the radiator cap sealed. While the radiator is out, practice and see the difference. If you run the bike and the radiator cap is only clicked on the first tabs, it'll spit out coolant.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-02-2011
unionjack Wrote:To access the radiator cap turn the handlebars full left lock, now stand on the right side of the bike facing the back of the bike and reach down beside the steering column with your right hand.
To fill it i use a funnel with about 12" of garden hose attached to it, slightly pared narrower at the other end so it will fit into the fill neck of the radiator.
Reinstall the cap in the same way you removed it, although my wife can reinstall it easier than I can due to her smaller hands.
This is a lot easier and faster than removing the false tank.
Be sure to burp the radiator and top off before installing the cap.
Thank's unionjack for that tip. I had already removed the false tank. Even with the false tank off, I can just reach the cap.
I got it all back together. Now it's time to put the coolant in it. What is the procedure for "Burping" the radiator? Do I need a few diapers on my shoulder? :lol:
Tomorrow after a quick road test, I'll try my hand at syncing the carbs. :YMPRAY:
Re: I try at changing timing belts - SIR tricky - 04-02-2011
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2833">http://gl1200goldwings.com/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=2833</a><!-- m -->
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-03-2011
Okay, I filled the radiator, Started the engine, watched of bubbles. After a couple of belches, the fluid stabilized. I put the cap on & went out around the block for a quick road test. It was still spitting & sputtering when I eased into the throttle. Returned to the garage & setup to sync the carbs.
I had the idle set at 1100 RPMs
Here is a before pic
[attachment=1]
When I was done it looked like this
[attachment=0]
I eased the throttle up to 1400 RPMs & noticed that the left & right banks where different. So I redid the procedure at 1250 RPMs. Then I when out for a couple mile road test. The sputtering is just about completely gone, but in town in 3rd gear & a steady 30 mph, it did had a few pops. I'm going to run this & one more full tank of gas (w/ Seafoam ) through it. If it is still acting up then it must be time for carbs rebuild.
Thank's for everybodys help, Carl
Re: I try at changing timing belts - neoracer - 04-03-2011
personally when you are riding down the road your bike is not idling
althought the first part of my sync procedures starts at idle but i sync at approx 3-3.3K,
that's my normal road rpm
Re: I try at changing timing belts - bluewing - 04-03-2011
I do the same as neoracer, I do the final sync at around 3,000 RPM.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - Guest - 04-03-2011
Thank's guys, I'll redo it next weekend. How do you hold the 3k RPM? Do you adjust the idle screw or just use the throttle lock?
Carl.
Re: I try at changing timing belts - bluewing - 04-03-2011
I use the throttle lock.