Alternator conversion

[blandaw]

Hi all. I'm new to goldwings and this site. I purchased my first wing about a month ago and have found a world of info on this sight. I am going to be doing an alternator conversion on my "new" 1985 Aspencade and wondered if anyone would like a blow by blow log of my venture with pics.!? Thanks for all the info on this sight!!!

[neoracer]

welcome to the forum from mid md/pa area

although we have had several members post their "poorboy" conversion and pics,there is always room for more

[chasrogers]

it is our goal to share all and any useful information on keeping our bikes running and in good condition so have at it we look forward to the info you find.

[backlander]

Welcome to the forum from Arkansas.

[blandaw]

Thank you for the warm welcome. I just finnished 2 caliper rebuilds and all new brake install. Not much luck bleeding so far but am going to try the Mity vac method tonight. Getting no pressure till bottom of stroke on "front" brake and about 1/2 for rear. Will start tear down for Alt as soon as breaks are good to go(hopefully tonight).

[neoracer]

just remember that rear brakes consist of right front brake and rear caliper, Mity Vac will definitely speed up the process

[bs175dths]

also remember when bleeding the brake pedal (as mentioned, is the rear and right front calipers), bleed the right front caliper first because it is the farthest from the master, then bleed the rear.
I like to loosen the bleed valve first before the actual bleeding takes place.
I pump the pedal three times, then open the valve, taking note as to the amount of air coming out
then close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
I will do this until I don't see air coming out of the valve.
While doing the bleeding, keep an eye on the fluid level and don't introduce more air into the system.
I don't use speed valves or any kind of pump.
I just use a tube on the bleed valve into a jar of fluid, and pump as described. It may be a reach between caliper and pedal or lever, but it can be done.

As precaution, I cover my tank and side of the bike when I bleed the front, left caliper.

[blandaw]

also remember when bleeding the brake pedal (as mentioned, is the rear and right front calipers), bleed the right front caliper first because it is the farthest from the master, then bleed the rear.
I like to loosen the bleed valve first before the actual bleeding takes place.
I pump the pedal three times, then open the valve, taking note as to the amount of air coming out
then close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
I will do this until I don't see air coming out of the valve.
While doing the bleeding, keep an eye on the fluid level and don't introduce more air into the system.
I don't use speed valves or any kind of pump.
I just use a tube on the bleed valve into a jar of fluid, and pump as described. It may be a reach between caliper and pedal or lever, but it can be done.

As precaution, I cover my tank and side of the bike when I bleed the front, left caliper.

I will try this as I'm not having mush sucsess any other way. Thanks.

[blandaw]

Tear down began tonight. Here's how far I got. I'm no master mechanic, but have done lots of work on cars, trucks, boats, pumps and other stuff so I concider myself mechanicly inclined. This will be from the perspective of someone who wants the dependability of the electrical system and wants to say "I fixed it myself".First I removed the seat. (1-6mm alen bolt and 1-8mm alen bolt)

[neoracer]

hint,you might want to remove the seat adjuster and changeout bolts to 6mm each side,less hassles next time,and there will be a next time since pretty much any work starts with removing seat and false tank

[blandaw]

hint,you might want to remove the seat adjuster and changeout bolts to 6mm each side,less hassles next time,and there will be a next time since pretty much any work starts with removing seat and false tank

Good Idea neoracer. Its not like a car everyone drives, set it and forget it. thanks.

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If you chose to keep seat ajuster operational, now is the time to clean and lube.

I then pulled side covers and pulled bat and removed 2 rear bolts for false tank(10mm)


I then removed glove box pockets, ruber trim pieces and 2 bolts from front of false tank and removed it as well.



since it will no longer be needed, i unpluged(1) rectifier/reg.(2) and removed.

Next I removed screws for lower cowling, same for both sides.Note: i had to losten skid guard to have room to remove accent covers on timing covers.

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If any acc. are switchedinto pannels being removed, I just marked them for future ref.

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To remove radiator, remove 6 screws for grill, 2 mounts for lower cowl brackets and unolug fan wire.

Next part was the worst. losten hose clamps and remove radiator. you may want to also remove any children from the area during this prosess Remove radiator cap and overflow tube on top of radiator.

This is where the fun begins. Make shure to cover all areas, such as water necks,(bottom is covered and top is exposed to show how easy it would be to get something in system that would not be a good thing. When grinding begins, cover ALL exposed areas to prevent contamination from dust debree.

White lines show where I will begin the demolition of my newly aquired Goldwing. I am shure it will be worth the time invested and best of all, peace of mind over the charging system. Wish me luck, I'm goin in!!!

[bs175dths]

on radiator removal, I loosened the upper hose clamp at the engine, not the radiator, and removed the two bolts holding the lower water outlet to the motor, not the lower hose clamp at either the radiator or the outlet. I left the hose attached.
The only caution here is to replace the oring in there and don't cross thread those bolts when you are reassembling.
I cleaned the bolts of anything which would make it difficult to hand thread them on and threaded them on as far as I could before using a tool to tighten when reassembling.

no worries....
you can do this!

[blandaw]

on radiator removal, I loosened the upper hose clamp at the engine, not the radiator, and removed the two bolts holding the lower water outlet to the motor, not the lower hose clamp at either the radiator or the outlet. I left the hose attached.
The only caution here is to replace the oring in there and don't cross thread those bolts when you are reassembling.
I cleaned the bolts of anything which would make it difficult to hand thread them on and threaded them on as far as I could before using a tool to tighten when reassembling.

no worries....
you can do this!

Excelant advice!! I shure thought about that, but was not shure about the type of gasket and wanted to save some time by not trmoving it. I think I will take neck off motor before reasembly because that was a bear to get out. GOOD ADVICE!!!

[blandaw]

warmer weather this weekend will send me back out to the garage (no heat). Here are some of the choises I made as far as parts.
Drive pulley is a Dorman 300-500 ($16.00) it measures (close, this is not rocket sience to me) 4-3/8" Dia. and has a profile of just under 7/8". center hole has splines and mesures 9/16".
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/Alternatorconversion004_zps605bea1b.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/Alternatorconversion004_zps605bea1b.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Alternatorconversion004_zps605bea1b.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/Alternatorconversion001_zps5c9992ab.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/Alternatorconversion001_zps5c9992ab.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Alternatorconversion001_zps5c9992ab.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/Alternatorconversion002_zps1ba49c2e.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/Alternatorconversion002_zps1ba49c2e.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Alternatorconversion002_zps1ba49c2e.jpg"/></a>
plug for alt. wires ($6.00)
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/Alternatorconversion006_zpsa38293ae.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/Alternatorconversion006_zpsa38293ae.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Alternatorconversion006_zpsa38293ae.jpg"/></a>
altenator denso for a geo metro ($75.00 shipped)
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/goldwing007_zpsb2666658.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/goldwing007_zpsb2666658.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo goldwing007_zpsb2666658.jpg"/></a>
while its apart, timing belts ($36.00)
<a href="http://s965.photobucket.com/user/blandaw/media/goldwing009_zpsfa275a33.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i965.photobucket.com/albums/ae136/blandaw/goldwing009_zpsfa275a33.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo goldwing009_zpsfa275a33.jpg"/></a>
Will post brackets and what nots as things come together!

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OK let me try the pics again.

[blandaw]

When cutting and grinding brace under fairing, I used a punch as a wedge to keep from hitting bolt. It also gave more room for the grinder

I cut one ear off alternator bottom to fit as needed.

When making lower alt. bracket, I decided to weld a nut on back side of bracket. Seemed like it may help, we will see.

Got timing covers off and droped shop light and blew bulb. Done for the night, no more bulbs.