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1985 LTD dies
I've been having an issue with my LTD where the Fuel System light comes on and it dies.
Happened the first time late last summer. Took seat off and checked wires and couldn't find anything and then it finally started.
Rode 4 blocks and it did it again. After messing with many connections it started again and I dove home like a bat out of hell (65miles).
Rode it a few times on short distances and it happened a few more times. This time I had my reading glasses and could make out the lights on the computer. Don't rmemeber the exact code, but it related to the air temperature sensor.
Unplugged it, looked it over and plugged it back in. No issues the rest of the year.
Rode the 1200 for the first time last week and went 35 miles. Stopped to look at a car for one of my kids, was there an hour and when I went to leave I got 3 miles down the road, Fuel System light came on and it died running 55mph!
Got off to the side of the road, tried to read the codes on the computer and couldn't see them well enough!
Got under the travel computer, wiggled the wires to the temp sensor and eventually the bike started again and I drove home.
Going to try and work on the bike tonight, but wondering if anyone has experience this before and has some advice.
Thanks
Philroy
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#1 06-09-2016, 12:35 PM
In 1985 while looking at a LTD, the mechanic/salesman told me that if I buy one, to unplug and spray electrical contact cleaner in every plug and socket and connector, I could find, and to do that once a year. Dielectric grease in the sockets is a good deal also.

I can't say I have been doing that every year since I got my LTD, but I am starting a full rebuild of the front end then the back end, so I will have plenty of time to check every thing on the bike.

Sometimes I have used a dental pick to scrape the contact surfaces in plugs and sockets, tedious yes, but that was the only way I could scrape the oxidation off.

In electronics, nothing is more frustrating than an intermittent failure. My dad and I chased one in his Ford van/small motor-home. for 10 years before I finally found it.

Dave R
Patriot Guard Rider
Previous bikes[/size]
CT 90--- 1960 125 Benly (Honda)--- Insane minibike with 125 Honda motor--- 1982 CB 650
current bikes
1987 CN 250 Helix--- 1985 GL1200 LTD
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#2 06-09-2016, 01:36 PM
dave85ltd is correct about the connectors,but you really need to read the ecm trouble codes when the fault occors
the air temp sensor is a temp variable resistor and as such you probably should measure the resistance at room temp and using a heat gun warm it up while hooked to a ohmmeter,analog would be best since its more visual during the change,
sounds like it might also be a loose connector terminal too,might try to gently bend the temp terminals a tad and reconnect

if you dont have a ltd supplement pm me an email address

while riding try to keep a eye on the travel computer in the instant mpg mode and see if the reading changes prior to the trouble happening,my sei had a clip missing from the coolant temp sensor which would malfunction only at higher rpm on the highway and then again only intermittently,around town and country riding no problem,slow driving never,one day noticed the instant mpg was dropping from 40-50mpg to 16mpg when the problem was about to happen,showing mc was going rich,when slowing up reading would jump right back to 40-50 mpg cruise,found a way to test circuit using some posi-taps and found open circuit at times when mc revved above 3500,repair was cheap and haven't had any trouble since (3 yrs ago)

1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
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#3 06-10-2016, 09:13 AM
A malfunctioning air temp sensor will not cause the bike to die. The ecu will lock a "value". You have multiple problems. Most likely in the same connector? Look for commons.
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#4 06-10-2016, 09:41 PM
Mine did the same thing, Bout drove me nuts.

When it dies take off the gas cap. Bet you see bubbles in the gasoline like it's boiling. Which it is.

Mine had a few pin hole leaks in the exhaust crossover box on top. Slow speeds, stop and go that would boil the gas in the tank. Bike would die
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#5 03-22-2017, 10:50 PM
Try soaking the gas cap overnight in seafoam, sounds like it might be plugged.

The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#6 03-23-2017, 09:17 AM
Philroy, you might wanna take a look at the 30amp submain dogbone fuse just for grins and giggles... The Fuelie's have 2 dogbone fuses one of which is on the starter solenoid and the other is an inline fuse located behind the starter solenoid. Like the one on the solenoid it will get brittle over time and can crack possibly causing what your seeing as it supplies power to the fuel injection along with other stuff. I've not been home for over 2 month's so my bike is not running just yet as I needed to get a new battery before I left so I can't say for certain if the fuel light will come on if the fuse is pulled...

Good Luck with her!!

1985 Limited Edition
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#7 04-20-2017, 08:35 PM
This is one of those things where life gets in the way.

Didn't ride the bike hardly at all last year, and when I tried, the rear master cylinder had failed on me again (brakes wouldn't pump up, and I have rebuilt it twice already!)
Along with the brake issue, the bike wouldn't charge the battery. Volt meter reading 11.7 volts.
So it has sat in my garage the entire time since my first post.

Thought this weekend I would try to dig into the charging issue. I had replaced the voltage regulator when I first got the bike running a few years back. At that time I soldered the regulator into the system, eliminating the plug.
I also replaced all the dogbone fuses with new style fuses at that time.
I appreciate the replies and will update if I ever get time to dig into it.
Thanks
Philroy
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#8 04-21-2017, 04:42 PM
Philroy, what was the brand regulator you used?? If it was anything other that the OEM Shindengen, It won't last.... At all....... Regulator Rectifier.com has the OEM model. If you need a link let me know....

1985 Limited Edition
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#9 04-23-2017, 01:57 PM
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