Main fuse replacement.

[delvis]

Since the photos are no longer up, I looked at the Tech Center document.

I just wanted to make sure I was understanding this correctly.

Red and Red/white wires tie into same end of 30 AMP connector and the other end gets the ring connector that connects to the positive side of the relay or battery?

Delvis

[neoracer]

u r correct

just make sure that the fuseholder you buy has good connection to the fuse,some are better than others

[delvis]

Well that did not fix it for me.

Still doing the same thing. Seems to have plenty of power but press starter button and lights dim with nothing. I did the mod just like it shows here.

I jumped across the relay and starter cranks but bike will not start. Almost like kill switch is on, but it is not.

[neoracer]

did you properly reconnect the two small wires back to the correct solenoid terminals
the tech article still shows the pictures
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[delvis]

Well after about 2 hours of troubleshooting with Neoracer on the speaker phone we got it.

I had to remove the seat and tank so we could see all the wiring. We checked the C80, C78, and C4 connectors. This is after I had already did the relay modification earlier in the day.

On C4 and C78 we was checking the black and Light green wire with a multimeter. Also unpluging and reseating these connectors. I think it was the red connector on the right side C78 that was the culprit. As i was trying to get the multimeter into the blk and green connection, I got 12v and the bike fired right up.

I tried it a couple times to make sure that it would restart. Tomorrow I will clean all the connectors before reassembly of the bike.

Thanks Neoracer and all the others that always help out...

[admin]

Well that did not fix it for me.

Still doing the same thing. Seems to have plenty of power but press starter button and lights dim with nothing. I did the mod just like it shows here.

I jumped across the relay and starter cranks but bike will not start. Almost like kill switch is on, but it is not.

If it worked before you made the changes it should work now if you performed the modification correctly. Double check your wiring and check the relay to listen for a loud click when power is applied to the coil. Otherwise, is the green neutral light on? Have you tried starting with the clutch lever in? I would verify that the kill switch circuit is good and I would trace the start button circuits as well.

[SIR tricky]

did you properly reconnect the two small wires back to the correct solenoid terminals
the tech article still shows the pictures
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm">http://gl1200goldwings.com/techcenter/article1004.htm</a><!-- m -->

A lot of our pictures were lost when Imagecave shut down, when I come across any that are missing I try to upload them to the forum which is what I did so that the pictures now are there again :evil: :evil:

[delvis]

Yeah It seemed to be the kill switch circuit in C78 connector.

The bike was working fine. Parked it and rebuilt the back shocks. Broke an air hose line running under the false tank and had to replace it. So I removed the tank replaced the hose and put the tank back on.

After total reassembly the bike did the previous mentioned power on but would not start.

Looked on here and saw the description to check relay. The red/white wires were toasted so I did the fix to the blade fuse. (This may have just been that way a while but may not have been the real problem.)

Tried to start but still the same.

Then with the help of Neoracer on speaker phone we checked all the connectors under the false tank and bingo it started....

It was good to replace the "Dog Bone" fuse anyway, and the burnt connector.

Thanks again for all the help...

[admin]

That's great news. Do you happen to remember exactly which connector was causing the problem?

[neoracer]

really seemed to be C78,which carries the power thru the killswitch,because power was found on C4,but that was after he had opened C80 to check

when he couldn't find power went to C4 and found power from fuse #4 to the kill switch ,then went back to C78 and after backprobing for power again at the black/green wire,he tried to start and it did,evidently bad connection at the connector,since he wasn't able to get connector apart last nite nor had any cleaner,he will reattempt after work later today

[admin]

That's the red wire on the right hand side of the false tank. I believe that's the same connection that failed on my bike when Tricky and I were out riding together one evening. It acted up several times before failing completely on a dark country road. Fortunately Tricky's hand was small enough to get in there and fix a connection so I could get back to Tricky's and fix it properly by using a soldered in jumper wire to bypass the burnt connector. Turns out the reason this connection failed is that I was powering my driving lamps from this circuit and it could not handle the extra load. Installing a relay on the lamps solved the load problem because now the lights are powered directly from the battery and now that circuit only provides low current power to the relay coil. On another note, I have also seen a couple of these connections under the false tank turn green and no longer conduct electricity. Since, I have cleaned and tightened all those connections and I pack the connectors with dielectric compound to seal them from moisture, air and dirt, so far so good.

[delvis]

Cleaned C4, C78, and C80 tonight when I got home buttoned up the bike and keep restarting it after adding different parts back on.

It is running and again I thank all of those that support this board. Special thanks to Neoracer. This was the second time this year we had a couple hour phone call as he walked me through troubleshooting stuff.

Last year it was Sundance and others...