No Spark on the two front cylinders

[Winger Ed]

I finished the conversion to an external alternator and couldn't get the engine to fire on the front two cylinders. If you are sitting on the bike is the right front cylinder number one? Across to the left front for number two, across to the right rear for three, and across to right rear for number four? I couldn't find any diagram in the online Haynes manual. I polished the timing belt covers when I had them off and they look pretty good.....nearly chromed looking. Is there a substitute coil or do I have to get one from Honda or ebay? I'd like to get this thing running to see if my conversion is okay. I had it running a little and it was charging. I put a 4" crank pulley on and a 2.5" on the alternator. :?

[Tropicalsuns]

left front #1 right front #2 right rear #3 left rear#4 all sitting on the bike....(thanks Roscoe_) :mrgreen:

[Tropicalsuns]

I say that cuz he just taught me 2 days ago!

[Winger Ed]

:oops: Well, I really did "it" this time! I found the problem with the spark. It was one of the connections on one of the coils. That fixed the spark problem. Now here's where I really shine with major stupid.....(drum roll)! I must have bent the valve stems on the 2/3 side cause I don't have but about 10# cylinder pressure in either of those jugs. As soon as I get off here, I am taking the head off. Thank you for the reply on cylinder number location.

ps: How old are you when you are too old to cry? I'm 58.

[Tropicalsuns]

I'm not clear on how you could have bent the valve stems doing an alternator conversion. While I certainly understand the spark issue, I thought the only way to bend the stem is the wrong installation of the timing belt.

Did you have to remove the belts?

[Tropicalsuns]

hmmmmm guess my memory served me better years ago...

#1 is right front, #3 is right rear, #2 is left front and #4 is left rear. One coil fires #1 and 2, the other, #3 and 4. The lack of fire on 1 and 2 would definately be a coil issue.

[Winger Ed]

That's why I wanted to get the proper location of cylinder #1, so I could get tdc and reset the timing belts. Now I'm confused. Will the real #1 cylinder please stand up? I set the belts using (sitting on the machine) left front as #1, then lined up the timing marks on the belt sprockets. I lined up the mark on top of the engine after removing the plug, too. I hand turned it and nothing bound up. Now my question is this: If you have the belts off a tooth or two could you have such bad timing that you would have a valve open at the wrong time and not have any compression? I didn't hear any noises and I have changed belts in the past with no problems. After I set the timing and belts I started it and it runs really rough. I didn't check the compression again. Any help out there?

[Guest]

That's why I wanted to get the proper location of cylinder #1, so I could get tdc and reset the timing belts. Now I'm confused. Will the real #1 cylinder please stand up?

I've read your post a couple of times. Marty is correct with his amended statement, #1 is front right as you sit on the bike. Did you not have the engine at top dead center prior to removing the t-belts?

[Winger Ed]

GLHONDA, I can't remember what I did now. I think I did NOT remove the plug from the top of the engine and line up the timing marks to find TDC. (No brains, no headaches!) I was thinking of the alternator job, I guess. At any rate, after I goofed with the timing belts to begin with, I lined up the timing marks and put now I know to be number two, instead of number 1, at TDC. Tomorrow I am going to put everything back right and see if it will start and smooth out. I know one thing, I've had the timing belts and alternator conversion off and on so many times now that it isn't a big deal. I hope it works. I wonder if when I did the compression test I got bad readings because the timing was off so bad that the valves were open at the wrong time. :?

[Winger Ed]

Well, the two intake valves on the right side were bent. When I took the head off I could see daylight when I looked thru the intake port. I went to the local Honda dealer and paid $141 for two intake valves, two stem seals, and a head gasket. An expensive lesson. Now when I park for the nite I put it on TDC with the number one cylinder at its peak. On the good side....I learned a bunch. The cylinder walls still have the crosshatching from being honed. There was no wear ring at the top of the cylinder stroke. This was a good experience and as soon as the parts come in and I put it back together I'm going for an Iron Butt!