neutral indicator light switch

[Guest]

Hi.... I'm in need of some expert advise, and I hope someone on this forum can help me. I'm trying to change the neutral light switch and the Clymer manual said I have to remove the engine from the frame, Is this really necessary? It looks like you can get the front cover off with it in the frame. or is this just wishful thinking. appreciate any help. Thanks.... Oh by the way I forgot to mention that I have a 86 interstate......

[Guest]

The front cover needs to come off, but it can be easily done in frame. Don't pull the engine.
This may be a throw back as the earlier wings had the neutral switch low to the outside and pulling the motor was the only way to get clearance for removal of the switch.
Of course, since you'll have the cover off, it may be worthwhile to invest in a waterpump.
What is the problem with the neutral switch? What symptoms do you have? Maybe you don't need to replace it?

[Guest]

I have done all the checks that the manual suggest, I have continuity on all three wires at the selector box. and the neutral light wont come on in neutral, and the starter wont work. I can pull in the clutch and it will start. so I assumed it must be the gear switch in the front cover. But I have been wrong before. Is there something else I need to check first?
I've got all the bolts out of the front cover, but I figured I needed so more advice before a broke it loose. Thanks.....

[Guest]

I've had that problem,too. Mine was self induced. I removed the front engine cover to replace the water pump and was not aware the gear selector switch had to be turn to a certain position when reinstalling the front engine cover. You will see that the switch has a long and a short side. There is a plastic alignment indicator on the switch. The long side should be lined up with the indicator. I put the cover back on and went to the ignition and made sure the neutral light came on before installing all the bolts and torquing them down.

[Guest]

It is quite possible for the indicator pin to be out of position, if it has done this since you've owned it. If it's something that use to work, but now doesn't, the problem is most likely in the switch.
To replace the switch, you're going to have to unplug the connector. It's located on the left side of the frame under the faux tank. Just follow the lead up from the front cover.
Before you remove the front cover, disconnect the connector and check each of the three wires for continuity to ground.
The light green with a red tracer should find ground in the neautral position only.
The red with white tracer should find ground in the fourth gear position, and the green with an orange tracer in fifth (OD)
If none of these find ground in the positions they're supposed to, the pin is out of position.
If only the neutral position wire is not finding ground, the selector switch will need to be replaced.
Either way, the front cover will have to come off.
If all your grounds are good, check the main harness side by gounding the neutral wire and see if the light energizes.
Check your connector carefully for signs of corrosion.

[Guest]

Thanks for the advice, I traced the wire from the switch to where it plugged in to the harness. I disconnected the plug and when I ground each connection on the harness end plug the lights come on ok. so it was my switch. I took the front cover off and I'm glad I did, It was full of what looked like brown jelly, I cleaned everything, and will order me a new switch. Thanks again for all of you guys advice......another problem solved......but there will probably be more ^^

[Granpah]

POSSIBLE EASY SOLUTION TO NEUTRAL LIGHT AT THE GL1000 SITE


A couple of years ago when I was driving '78 and '79 GL1000s, I used to read the posts at the GoldWing GL1000 Web site: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.gl1000.info/">http://www.gl1000.info/</a><!-- m -->

There's a special section there called:
GL1000, GL1100 Pesky Neutral Light Problem Fixed
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.shtml">http://www.gl1000.info/NeutralLight.shtml</a><!-- m -->

The solution is very specific and very easy -- and worth a try before you start pulling your engine apart!

The main point here is that carbon builds up on the neutral indicator switch which is located in the crank case (why you have to take the engine apart to replace it). But the author says you can BURN THE CARBON OFF WITH A VERY MINOR ELECTRICAL MODIFICATION. He gives step-by-step instructions how to do it.


'Hope this helps with your problem.