Yes, another engine oil question-or-how to be a dumb a$$.

[Guest]

Ok....The setup...Back in the winter I purchased some Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40
to put in the ole '86 Wing. (Why?? I don't know. I just wanted some 5w-something in Mobil 1...and the PO used Mobil 1....and I didn't look very close because WallyWorld was doing a huge upgrade and there were only a couple of Mobil 1 choices.) So some where between inattentiveness, some-timers, and CRS (can't remember stuff) I picked up the wrong oil.

Well, because of some physical problems I was unable to change oil...or ride much this winter. So the first opportunity I got to ride I changed the oil and filter and did a 100mi. ride to see the "Vietnam Moving Wall" with a buddy a couple of weekends ago. When we returned he commented on my using the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 oil.... he saw the jug in my garage. On the "donut" or anywhere on the jug was mentioned about EC or Energy Conserving. In the lower part of the "Donut" was "API CI-4 Plus. On their web site they mention "SuperSyn" but this is now where on the jug.

So, have I screwed up and added an EC (energy conserving) oil to my bike? ...and if so what should I do?

You may start any response with "Dumb A$$". It seems well deserved.

Mobil 1 link to this product...

<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx">http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... 5W-40.aspx</a><!-- m -->

Because of rain I haven't ridden it for a couple of weeks.

To be on the safe side, maybe I should drain it, new filter, add diesel fuel to oil crank, run it up to temp, dump and start with something totally different...I really feel like a D.A.!!

So,and help and insights will be much appreciated....or a link to a similar screw up.

GaryB

[roscoepc]

If the clutch is not slipping just change the oil and filter. And if ya want to go with the Mobile 1, try the V-Twin Full Synthetic. I've been using it for over a year now and I like it! I run the 20w-50w in mine and it took 90% of the "Clunkyness" out while shifting.

Yep, more expensive, but Yep, I like it!! 8)

[bluewing]

A friend of mine did that same thing last Summer. His clutch just started to slip a bit with about 500 k on the oil. He changed the oil and filter to oil with no friction reducers and every thing was fine.

[Sgt Dave]

Lane (Bluewing)...if your buddy got 500k miles one one oil change before the clutch started to slip I guess he did pretty good

[neoracer]

boy i hate to bust anybody's bubble but i have been using an oil additive for almost 20 years
its called neogard.... made by the NEO oil company in ca

i use it in all my vehicles, i even use it when assembling engines,its main ingredient is "moly"

years ago when i first started coating engine parts i was introduced it get by the person who trained me in the application process

at the time i had a Honda 750K2 and in the item instruction sheet it states "do not use in a positraction" application.

after talking with the companies engineers and with much "concern" i decided to add it to my engine oil,the engineer told me that after adding it there would be a difference in cruising rpm if i just took it on a cruise with a locked throttle,what's the worst case scenario,no clutch huh

well it worked exactly like they said,increased idling rpm,cruise rpm and no clutch slippage,and got better fuel mileage

ran that bike with no engine damage,repairs or anything for 90K ( 90,000) miles,not even valve adjustments ie still ate sprockets and chains though

use it in my 86 GL since i bought it 10K ago and will ad it to my 86 SEI i just bought as soon as the spin on adapter i just purchased arrives

[bluewing]

Lane (Bluewing)...if your buddy got 500k miles one one oil change before the clutch started to slip I guess he did pretty good

That's 500 kilometers, about 300 miles. :lol:

[Guest]

Thanks all!

I know the oil topic is one that has a lot hard fact combined with a touch of subjectiveness and then a host of personal preference.

Just remember that nowhere on that jug were the words "Energy Conserving" or "Energy Saving". Oh well...

I think I'll go with a non-synthetic such as Delo LE 400 because it still has some of the ZDDP in there for older engines...it suppose to have an anti-wear additive, a corrosion inhibitor, and antioxidants...which may help my bike from getting cancer. ;^) ...oh, and did I mention price??!!

So, I too will do an oil change as soon as my spin-on converter arrives!! Then do another change at 1000 - 1200 mi to finish getting the remains of the other oil out. With using the Delo and a spin-on filter it won't hit my pocket book too hard. ;^)

Now, is there a problem with using the Delo LE 400?? Stop me before I screw up again, please.

GaryB

[Feetup]

Gary;

I'm not sure that you have "screwed up"
If the oil is not labeled as EC and I can't see anywhere on the web site that Mobil claims it as energy conserving, then I rather doubt it is.
Many of us use fully synthetic oil, and some use diesel specific oils in our 1200's. I have used 15W-40 diesel specific oils in all my gasoline vehicles for well over 20 years now, and have been using Mobile 1 synthetic in my wing for about a year and some now.
The only thing I could find even the slightest fault with would be the thin viscosity (5W) which would tend to give you a lot of transmission noise. In it's defence though you would be unlikely to have starter pawl miss cues and you may well have a smoother clutch engagement.
If you don't trust the oil, than change it out to what you do trust, but I really don't see any reason for self recriminations.

Above all, the oil you choose is as much a matter of opinion as the colors you like.

[Granpah]

I had your question in mind when I posted,

Click on title --> WHICH ENGINE OIL(S) TO USE AND WHY



Just follow the link and your exact answer may be in this post.