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#1 03-04-2010, 08:51 PM,

Help!!!!!!!!!! I am having problems with my 85 LTD....Sometimes it doesn't want to start......the starter turns the enging over but no go. The tach works, the voltage fluctuates between 11.7 and 15.3 volts. I turn the ignition switch on and off and sometimes that makes it go, other times the on off switch on right handlebar makes it go.....a couple of times it has quit when in gear and going........bumps make the radio go loud and quiet......seems to me there is a loose connection or two somewhere......the PO hadn't ran it much the past 3 years so has sat a lot.......94K miles and well maintained as far as oil change and normal prev. maintanence......I have taken the seat off and tried to clean the plug ins, feel I have to be more concentrated on where the loose connections are than just trial and error.......I love this site and hope to have some advice on where to start and systematically get this baby back on her feet..........thanks in advance.....Pat

**roscoepc** · #2 03-05-2010, 12:26 AM,

The voltage fluctuation 11.7-15.3vdc, ( when the engine is running, right?), sounds like the regulator is getting ready to take a dump..

Intermitant running... I'd start simple. Have you changed the main 30 amp dogbone fuse located on the starter selinoid to a 30 amp in-line fuse? If you haven't changed it that could be you're problem as they get brittle with heat and age. Also there's another 30 amp in-line dogbone fuse that's located behind the starter selinoid that needs to be replaced.

Try this and we'll go from there! 8)

motor22 · #3 03-05-2010, 06:55 AM,

roscoepc wrote
The voltage fluctuation 11.7-15.3vdc, ( when the engine is running, right?), sounds like the regulator is getting ready to take a dump..

Intermitant running... I'd start simple. Have you changed the main 30 amp dogbone fuse located on the starter selinoid to a 30 amp in-line fuse? If you haven't changed it that could be you're problem as they get brittle with heat and age. Also there's another 30 amp in-line dogbone fuse that's located behind the starter selinoid that needs to be replaced.

Thats my vote also.

#4 03-05-2010, 08:00 AM,

Thanks for the information. I will do this today. The volt changes are when the engine is running. Have to get her running, this is the first day to hit 60 degrees since Nov. 28, so says the weather guy......... ^ Smile

^ Pat

**neoracer** · #5 03-05-2010, 08:30 AM,

besides fixing the problem dogbones and the stator connector i'd check the regulator connector too

on the ltd instead of having one connector pair like the aspy at the rectifier the ltd has two pair

done just look at it, take it apart and inspect the connector,if any of the wires are suspect hardwire the regs out of the harness,if the reg is going bad your gonna replace it anyway

mine looked fine till ya took it apart

your ignition switch seems to be a problem too

#6 03-05-2010, 08:44 PM,

I replaced both of the dog bone fuses today and am in the process of cleaning the connecters, the voltage stays the same at the battery.......seems to act right......starts at low and as rpm increases the voltage increases to a point......the voltage at the meter on dash fluctuates.....the stator wires have been hardwired already..........will look at regulator plug in........thanks......Pat

**roscoepc** · #7 03-05-2010, 09:06 PM,

I'm assuming that the bike didn't die during any of your testing after you replaced the fuses?? If so, Good! Now we're doing good things!!

You're telling me that the voltage at the battery stays the same while the voltage on the dash meter changes? We need to verify that. I'd suggest you use a digital VOM meter connected to the battery and put the meter up on the fake tank where you can watch both meters to see if they are both dropping to a lower voltage at the same time. If your hand held meter remains steady and the one in the dash starts dropping then all that might be wrong is a bad/loose/corroded connector going to the dash volt meter. I'd run her at least 15 minutes to about a half hour to get her up to a good operating temp and see what happens..

BTW, With no load mine idles @ 14.0-14.1vdc at idle. At 2000-3000rpm about 14.1vdc.

#8 03-05-2010, 10:23 PM,

kswarbird Wrote:I replaced both of the dog bone fuses today and am in the process of cleaning the connecters, the voltage stays the same at the battery.......seems to act right......starts at low and as rpm increases the voltage increases to a point......the voltage at the meter on dash fluctuates.....the stator wires have been hardwired already..........will look at regulator plug in........thanks......Pat

When you replaced the dog bone fuses, you did so with an in line fuse didn't you? If not you should. My two cents on that. As far as it cutting out it almost sounds like a poor ground or possibly the start switch. My VTX had that problem and it was the switch.

#9 03-06-2010, 07:02 AM,

thanks for the good info.......I did replace the dog bone fuses with inlline fuses. The voltage at the battery stays consstant, the dash volt meter flucuates, this leads me to believe there is a loose connection, s, I am in the process of cleaning and reconnecting. I noticed the low fuel indicator stays on sometimes, tank gauge registers over half tank.....another indication of loose connection? I will check the regulator connections today and get back with you all...........ride safe.........Pat

joe turner · #10 03-06-2010, 09:48 AM,

Will wiggling the key with the bike running make the low fuel light go out ?

#11 03-06-2010, 11:33 PM,

Joe, wiggling the key does not do anything......all the lights, guages etc. go on when I turn the key on.........the low oil light goes out, but the low fuel stays on........the fuel guage works properly.......I should be finished with cleaning the connecters today and have it all back together.......thanks for the help.....Pat

#12 03-08-2010, 06:44 PM,

I finally got everything back where it belongs.......I now have 10 successive, successful starts....probably need a starter before long.......everything is acting normal except the fuel light, it stays on.....the fuel system light goes on with the key and turns off momentairly.......the PO put a toggle switch on the computer system display......when I turn it off and on the fuel light blinks.......I am going to drive it till it quits the way it is.........my only other concern is the voltage regulator........the voltage at the battery is stable and normal but at the dash voltage is irratic.......should I put in a new regulator or could the problem be with the guage......thanks for all the help......Pat

**roscoepc** · #13 03-08-2010, 10:31 PM,

It sounds like you've done Good Things with her!! 8) Congratulations on some good work!! :mrgreen:

Quote:the PO put a toggle switch on the computer system display......when I turn it off and on the fuel light blinks

I think you might be on to something there... When the bike is turned off, there is a small "Parasitic" drain on the battery to maintain the Travel Computers memory. My guess is the PO put the toggle switch to turn the T.C. off when the bike was turned off to keep the battery from being drained. If it were me I'd put it back to stock and see what happens with the fuel light then. If it's still on I'll pull out my Electrical Troubleshooting manual and see what it says...

Quote:my only other concern is the voltage regulator........the voltage at the battery is stable and normal but at the dash voltage is irratic.......should I put in a new regulator or could the problem be with the guage......

If you are measuring a steady 14.0-14.5vdc at the battery and the voltmeter by the radio is reading erratically, my votes gonna be for a good charging system and a bad/loose/corroded voltmeter connection or ground.

Maintain the Course there ks!! You'll get there!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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