Regulator Connector - One Spade Connector Melted
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Guys,
Bike has been running just fine. Alternator "3 yellow wires" were soldered a long time ago. New Honda OEM regulator about a year ago or so. While working on something esle I had to pull apart the big connector at the regulator. (It was fine last time I looked so I just packed it with dielectric grease and put her back together.) This time I found one of the spade connectors in the bunch had overheated and melted some of the side of the plasatic connector body around it. Did not look corroded or anything, just melted the plastic a bit. Wires are NOT melted, nor do they look to be overheated. What do I do? 1. Hit it with some contact cleaner, pinch the female side of that particular connector down good to make sure the spade connection fits tight, and re-pack with dielectric grease. 2. Try to find an new connector and replace it. 3. Something else completely. Any and all advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.
'87 GL1200A - Black/Grey
'06 GL1800 - Arctic White '81 CB750C - Blue/Blue U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976) |
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#1
09-29-2010, 08:19 AM,
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I would pull the wires out of the connector, remove the terminals and solder the wire ends together and cover the connection with heat shrink tube.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com |
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#2
09-29-2010, 10:13 AM,
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cleaning and pinching connectors is a stop gap affair
best thing to do is just hardwire all the wires using uninsulated butt connectors soldered and heatshrunk making it easier for you is that 1) both red wires on connector/regulator can be joined together 2) same for the green wires but at the same time,add another same gauge and run it over to the frame,just makes another groundpoint w/o going all way back to battery 3) the yellow wires from stator just hardwire,same with the black wire after 25 years+ and all the heat caused by the high amps the connections loose their tension and once they do the resistance in the circuit increase and even more heat develops which leads to parts failure,hondas idea to run two wires where one large gauge wire should have been i suppose was because large amp connectors would have been a space problem,plus it was easier to engineer this setup,course they never expected a 25+ lifespan either,but its not a problem since its an easy fix,well within our abilities
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K 2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K Hancock,MD |
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#3
09-29-2010, 10:15 AM,
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neoracer Wrote:3) the yellow wires from stator just hardwire,same with the black wire Thanks to all! Neoracer, Your item #3 confused me just a bit. I'm not looking at the connector right now, but I beleiver there are 3 yellow wires at the regulator connector (those coming from my soldered joints at the left side battery area). You don't mean for me to connect all three of those wires do you? Those three yellow wires must remain separate from each other right? What I should do is solder one yellow wire to one at the regulator. Solder a second yellow wire to a second yellow wire at the regulator, etc. correct? PS) BTW, it was one of the three yellow wires at the regulator connector that melted the plastic.
'87 GL1200A - Black/Grey
'06 GL1800 - Arctic White '81 CB750C - Blue/Blue U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976) |
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#4
09-29-2010, 10:53 AM,
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just hardwire each separately
most people just hardwire the stator connector at the battery and NEVER think about the reg connector,when actually it usually where the problem first started,it just shows up easier at the battery connector,then there's the person that doesn't even know how to take the shelter off because their dealer is the only one that ever works on it
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K 2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K Hancock,MD |
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#5
09-29-2010, 11:15 AM,
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neoracer Wrote:just hardwire each separately That's what I thought. Thanks much!
'87 GL1200A - Black/Grey
'06 GL1800 - Arctic White '81 CB750C - Blue/Blue U.S. Navy SWO (1967 to 1976) |
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#6
09-29-2010, 11:32 AM,
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