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Interested in increasing oil flow to parts in the heads
I have an Interstate with approximately 130,000 miles. I commute 64 miles a day, averaging 70 mph, 5 days a week and she uses a little oil. She uses more oil if I take her over 80mph. Although I think I have her running as good as she can run, I would like to see if I can improve oil flow to the moving parts in the heads.
Although I could just add some Mystery oil to the motor oil and put some miles down, I wanted to see if I could increase flow without additives and see results more sooner than later.
Can the veterans out there tell me whether or not I can reuse these parts: in the cylinder head exploded view: item 12, 12262-MG9-000, plate, orifice (sandwiched between the head and item 1), this part is discontinued; item 11, 12261-MG9-000, ring, oil seal (there are 4 of these in each head and are still available)
I thought I would remove the part which holds the cam to the head (item 1), remove oil distribution plate (item 10) and clean these oil passages. Also attempt to clean the passages to the cam bearing surfaces.
I was also going to clean the oil distribution pipe located under the carburetor assembly (no small job to getting it since the carbs and the cooling needs to be disassembled).
Are there other steps/suggestions which can be offered up?

I want to thank in advance all those who will be responding and look forward to doing a follow up.

Thanks,

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#1 08-17-2012, 03:04 PM,
From my experience you might first want to install an oil pressure gauge on the engine to determine if you actually have adequate oil pressure to work with. If it checks out good oil pressure wise then move on to other areas. The orifice plate is made of steel and is most certainly reusable. Cleaning out the oil ports may be a good idea because I have seen total blockages in those areas but be certain to work under very clean conditions as there are some very tiny orifices in the valve system components. Don't forget that if you disassemble the valve adjusters or leave them on their sides a long time then you may have to bleed them manually to get them working again. Also, make a jig (of sorts) to hold all of your parts so that they all go back into the exact same places they came out of. Installing Viton valve seals may help reduce the oil consumption as long as the valve guides aren't too bad. Make sure that you check the engine coolant thermostat as an engine that runs too cold can use excessive oil because the pistons do not heat up enough to seal properly. Use a good quality oil filter and if you are running in hot weather mostly you can switch up to 20W50 oil to help with your situation. The 20W50 gives a slight boost to oil pressure as compared to 10W40 and it may not slip past the rings as easily if you use a high quality oil.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#2 08-17-2012, 04:23 PM,
It has been a while since I wrote the initial post but I wanted to revisit and update.
Due to life in general, repairing the head gaskets, water pump and thermostat took my bike out of commission for over a year. I have since made the repairs and since the bike was down for such a long period, decided to add some Seafoam to the engine oil.
After the Seafoam treatment and subsequent oil change, I started to leak at the camshaft seals, behind the timing belt pulleys. I replaced both the camshaft oil seals and the camshaft end caps and have been leak free since. Now I add a couple of ounces of MMO to the engine oil change but am still interested in knowing my oil pressure. I am still using some oil and oil consumption increases as ground speed increases.

I would like to know what this site thinks is excessive oil consumption?

I read oil consumption will increase the cooler the engine runs due to the engine running too cool to allow the rings to seal.

How cool is too cool?

I have a 32 mile commute at 65 to 70 mph and the temperature gauge reads two ticks into my mechanical temperature gauge. Once I leave the freeway and am doing city speeds, the temperature goes up to almost 1/2 way, unless I switch on the cooling fan which will then maintain two ticks.

For the sake of argument, I am running Delo LE, 15/40 and a Wix, 24940 filter.

I am changing my oil every 2000 miles, and it is black.

I have noticed less of a 'clunk' when I shift and the valves (and overall engine) sound quieter.

MPG is still 42-44, so that is unchanged.

I am still pursuing a mechanical oil gauge, but I haven't worked out all the details. I am considering several sites to tap into the oil galleries.

So to recap:
I use Delo LE 15/40 oil
Wix 24940 filter
I change every 2000 miles
The odometer reads 49900 but has gone around once already (149900)
I am getting 42 - 44 mph

what is considered excessive oil use?
how cool is too cool a standard operation temperature?
has anyone or do you know someone who has, added an oil pressure gauge, and how they did it?

Thanks in advance for your opinions..........
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#3 05-30-2015, 10:54 PM,
I have seen an oil pressure gauge installed where the pressure sensor is located.

Valve seals can be leaking
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#4 05-31-2015, 04:06 PM,
Yes, the oil sensor location is the logical choice but the threads aren't easily matched.
I have read where some folks force what they have into the oil sensor hole then silicone the heck out of it to get it to stop leaking. Not what I want to do.

There is also the sealing bolt location in the cylinder block.
The sealing bolts and sealing washers are still available from Honda. Drill and tap of your choice and you are in business.

More dramatic is using a transmission cover from a Limited or Sei or a '86 or '87.
Some of the EFI Wings had an oil sensor mounted in these covers. Some didn't but the same spot has a flat surface where it would be easy to drill and tap, add a brass elbow and route the oil line. (taking the necessary precautions to protect the oil line from nicks and cuts.)

I am considering changing out the valve stem seals as another means of reducing my oil consumption.
Thanks for the thoughts folks.....
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#5 06-06-2015, 09:02 PM,
From what I have recently run across, this is how the oil flows:
Getting picked up at the bottom of the cylinder cases, it goes through the oil strain screen
Then it goes into the main oil pump
Then it goes to the filter.

From the filter it passes through a large passage down the right side of the cylinder case traveling front to rear passing the oil pressure sending unit before being routed toward the top of the cylinder cases.

As it makes its way to the top of the cases, it is also directed to the main drive chain, through the little black part with the three holes in the nozzle. As the oil moves across the top of the cases, back to front, it is directed down to the output shaft. Continuing forward, it finds a port which directs it to the right cylinder head. It passed under the external oil pipe on the right side of the cases as it continues to the front of the crankshaft where it enters to lubricate the rods and wrist pins.
Oil also makes it way to the transmission primary gears, secondary gears and clutch pack.
At the external oil pipe on the right side of the case, the pipe directs the oil to the left side of the case. The forward banjo bolt directs the oil to the left head and the rear banjo bolt directs the oil to the alternator.

My interest comes from my valves talking too much and the primary chain making noise if I set the idle to spec.

I have always found, if I understand how it works, I can get it to work for me.....
and this helps explain it.

I hope this is helpful to others as well.

-Ride On
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#6 11-20-2015, 12:46 PM,
All of my Wings ( and others concur) burn quite a bit of oil when kept to the top line in the window. When kept at the middle line, almost none. If I fill mine to the top, it's down to the middle line in 500 miles, then it doesn't move. So I just fill mine to that mark and go oil-change to oil-change.

If you are concerned with oiling of cams and rockers, it wouldn't hurt to make sure the oil holes in the rocker tubes are pointing in the right direction. It is easy to miss their purpose and get them on the wrong sides. OldFogey has a good write up of what to check and a remedy if they're worn on his site at Wingovations.com
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#7 02-21-2017, 06:26 PM,
(02-21-2017, 06:26 PM)ekvh Wrote: All of my Wings ( and others concur) burn quite a bit of oil when kept to the top line in the window. When kept at the middle line, almost none. If I fill mine to the top, it's down to the middle line in 500 miles, then it doesn't move. So I just fill mine to that mark and go oil-change to oil-change.

If you are concerned with oiling of cams and rockers, it wouldn't hurt to make sure the oil holes in the rocker tubes are pointing in the right direction. It is easy to miss their purpose and get them on the wrong sides. OldFogey has a good write up of what to check and a remedy if they're worn on his site at Wingovations.com

you are most likely overfilling with oil by filling to the top of the sight glass, with 4 quarts in my ST 1300 the sight glass is half full. my nieces old 1000 & 100 were the same, 4quarts and the window was half full
'75cb750 ,'79cb750superK,
'93gl1500se, '79cb 750f,
'85cb450sc, '05sunL70
'06 ST 1300....william
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#8 02-22-2017, 09:41 AM,


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