Day one, its January in New England. Temp is in mid forties and its raining. Its nice to have a garage.

Ahhh, attachment limit is three.

Guess I have to type something here to post more photos.

Tape up the alt real good. Little pieces of metal inside alt is bad.

Next . .

A very good and informative post.
Thank you very much.

Great photos now I understand the Poorboy system.
Also hope I never need it, but if I ever do this really helped.

Thanks

I haven't completed the project yet. I'm posting as I do the work. And I didn't "need" the modification either, but I'm going to have this bike for a while. The wifeythang and I plan on lots of rides and don't want any stator break downs.

My brake would not hold the rear wheel enough to break that cam bolt, I ended up with a long metal bar through the rear wheel and then turning the bolt until the bar rested up under the saddlebag brackets with the wife also holding the rear brake on, then it finally broke loose.

Why not just use your built in torque multiplier "transmission"?
If you had shifted the bike into 5th gear you could have broken or loosened the crankshaft pulley bolt with little to no brake pressure.

That sounds like an easy solution. And I spent a couple hours trying. Put it in high gear, even tried pushing the brake while turning the crank bolt. Then I put a nice piece of wood through the real wheel. The rear wheel turned enough to snap the wood. When the wifeythang got home, I took the bike off the center stand, had her get on the bike, use high gear, stand on the rear brake and hold front brake . . . and bingo it came loose.

Roleketu,
I've been installing the same kit on my 84 GL1200i this past weekend. Took couple trips to the store, but I'm using the "25030310" 31.68 NAPA belt. "Carquest" or Gates# is 30310 on the belt. Using the hardware supplied with the kit, this belt keeps that alternator as close to the plastic as possible. (I had to trim a significant size hole in the lower plastic cowl cover so the interior side of the alternator would fit inside it, and as close as possible to the heat shield and carburetors, but the upside is I have plenty of clearance with the plastic cover. I trimmed just a 1/8 inch off the inside of the lower vent hole so it wouldn't hit the alt. pulley. I made several smaller cuts to the alternator rear leg before I ended up doing what you did, and cut it back to the lines noted in your picture. I will post a pic of the trimmed cowl cover soon. May help others see what it may take to get that alternator close as possible to the engine.
Thanks for the pictures.
84Wing_NY

It was in 5th gear, but that bolt was very very tight.

I was scared it was going to break off, I had even been using a big impact wrench to no avail.

Me thinks you need your impact wrench looking at.

Yes that bolt can be tough.

My first was 5th gear and the rear brake and it worked but now I use a 1/2" impact.

i found that by lengthening the bottom bracket by approx 1 1/4 using some 1" thick angle that it allowed the alternator to come out further on the bottom but
allowed the alt body to be moved further inside towards crank pulley

i used a 4" crank pulley in my conversion

this setup did not require any trimming of the lower fairing cover and used a 25-030310 alt belt,also gave me more adj in future for belt adj then orig bracket did
just a little tweak that worked better for me, each conversion seems dependent on what alt is used

I am getting ready to finally get at installing my kit. Only had it three years. Any way the area that I am unsure of is how do find the center of the crankshaft in order to drill a access hole for pulley thro timing cover. I would like this hole to be very close to the size of the crank pulley shaft size.