I replaced my stator with and after market ElectroSport stator this winter, while I had my engine out.
The reason I picked this one is that it supposedly gives an extra 5 amp over all.

http://www.electrosport.com/products/pr ... agodnBplZA

In my reading, I also replaced my Regulator Retifier with an after market one so as to not fry the stock one.

http://www.electrosport.com/products/pr ... il-589.php

What I discovered when I fired the bike up is that I am running 13.5 volts at 1080 RPMs.
At 3,000 RPMS, I am still running 13.5 volts.

Has anyone used these in the past?

when u replaced the rectifier did you hardwire it in?

Most definately.

you really need to get a few miles on it to see what happens, you may just have a weak battery and it will take a couple minutes to
get past that state

did you happen to check that stator voltage before you hardwired everything to see if stator output was good,i know it sounds stupid but that's the first thing we assume is that its new and therefore has to be good

same way as the rectifier

I did not check the stator or RR, but I kept the battery on a tender since I started the rebuild.
I will check the stator and RR.

Before we start troubleshooting too much let's do some math:

13.5vdc x 30 amps= 405 watts output

If your new stator and regulator hold up, I think you'll be allright!

Nice math but.
The stator he installed if the link is correct only has an output of 350W +/- 5%.
13.5V will probably maintain a battery but will not fully charge it after a heavy drain such as starting your bike.
As the voltage output remains the same from idle to 3000rpm I would suspect that the new regulator is bad. Of course checking all the connections would be the first step before deciding that the regulator is defective.

Don't make me type in upper case!
You're both misinformed. I have repeatedly said that voltage is an indication. You can't multiply 13.5 times 30 amps because you don't know what the charging amperage is. It's not 30. The regulator determines amperage output of the stator based on battery voltage/load/condition. Although the battery was "maintained" over the winter, it may not be at peak operating status. Before you go cutting wires, and checking stator output, or condeming the new components, drive the bike and see if the battery condition improves. A sulfated battery will foul tests.

Ok, Let's check my math!

In the Ohm's law power formula I used: P=ExI, the voltage, 13.5vdc, is what lucky_x16 is telling us the bike is producing.

The current value I used is the main fuse amperage= 30 amps.

If you multiply the voltage times the amperage that equals a MAX output of 405 watts.. In a perfect world that is!!



If you kill the bike right after you start it, I'll agree with you! However when a bike is normaly fired up, the owner normaly has the intention of RIDING the bike. Being as this is a Goldwing that we're talking about the time period we're talking about 1-24 hour's!! If the charging system maintains a steady voltage of 13.5vdc the battery will recover and be fully charged in about, maximum, 15 minutes or so..

Think about it.. The resting voltage of the battery is about 12.5vdc. The charging voltage is 13.5vdc.. The battery IS gonna be charged if given the time..



As I stated in another post, the charging voltage on mine at idle is about 14vdc with no load. At 3000rpm it's 14.1-14.2vdc. Mine has the larger stator though and should be a touch higher voltage output than the lower output stator on a carb'd model.

I've not read too much about the Electrix charging system so I don't quite know what the voltage output is supposed to be but, I hope this system holds up OK for lucky_x16!

As I said before, I think that 13.5vdc is Ok and will charge the bike!

lucky_x16, Let us know how it works out for ya!!

Of course battery condition will affect charging but unless your battery is totally fubared the regulator should push between 13.8 and 14.8 volts at it, the amperage it accepts of course depends on the the condition and charge of the battery.
If the battery will start the bike but the regulator only pushes 13.5V at it there is a problem with the charging system.

FOMI

I'm not sure you understand the job of the regulator.
It doesn't matter whether you have a 100W or 1000W stater the regulators job is to deliver a fixed voltage to the system. If your system is using more current than the stater can produce then yes the voltage will drop as the system draws power from the battery but increased stater size will not increase charge voltage.

Please explain or is that your own proprietary code?

Three major factors of alternator design:
1) number of windings...LTD has more
2) strength of field...LTD has larger permanent magnet
3) rpm

Two out of three ain't bad Ros. The LTD/SEI charging systems do produce more amperage at idle, as evidenced by your excellent 14.0 volts at idle.
You guys keep getting hung up on voltage. Voltage is an indication. Stick an ammeter in series and then we'll talk.
Please re-read topic viewtopic.php?f=52&t=7522
Ironically, it was Ken's post. Too bad he didn't read it.

I have such a hard time getting across to folks that a charge voltage reading is nomimal as it depends upon battery voltage and current draw. For example, after a long engine cranking session the battery will be almost depleted therefore displayed voltage will be low even though charging current is at its highest whereas, displayed voltage from a fully charged battery will be at its near maximum even though the alternator is hardly putting out any current. Therefore, for displayed voltage to make sense one must know battery condition and charging current output and even then there are a number of variables that make displayed voltage somewhat inaccurate. Ideally, if everything is working fine you should get a 14.7 volt reading at 3000 RPM depending upon the regulator. My experience tells me that if charging voltage is steady at 13.5 volts then there is something wrong in the system.