It seems like some of the links for one of the alternators that can be used have gone dead.

Here is a fresh link

http://search.waiglobal.com/partsearch/ ... -1230-01ND

And here is another that requires no altinator cutting. http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/It ... 0169/12180 1-wire non chrome&caSKU=and0169/12180%201-wire%20non%20chrome&caTitle=NEW%20CHEVY%20MINI%20ALTERNATOR%20DENSO%20STREET%20ROD%20RACE%201-WIRE%20%2012180 Sorry about the long url. forgot how to shorten. It appears that the url only brings up the home page. This is what I did a search on. NEW CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE 12180

Nice find and a good price too.

The URL should be shortened automatically.
As in,
http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/It ... 20%2012180
It looks like your copy and paste put some spaces where there should be a %20 .

This one would be OK too, save the cutting, but require a new pulley for those wanting to use serpentine belts. Also by the looks of things, re-fabricating the brackets to account for the difference in the front mounting brackets.

It only puts out 35 amps.

Don, that's 5 more amps than the stock GL1200 alternator which puts out 360 watts. 360 watts divided by 12 volts= 30 amps Also, these aftermarket alternators put out more juice at lower RPM's.

I agree with Vic.
Unless your planing on lighting up your bike like a Christmas tree and adding aircraft landing lights 35 amps is enough.

Vic,
To determin amps you divide watts by 14. A stock system puts out 25.71 amps. A so called 12 volt system operates at 14 volts. Almost everyone on this board that has considered putting on an external alternator are wanting more amps than stock. The one I used is 55 amps & most want more. If your bike has a lot of lights & or you add big driving lamps 35 amps are not enought.

Poorboy

Don, 12 volts is simply a nominal figure that everyone will comprehend when discussing the "12" volt system estimated amperage output on our bikes. Accurate amperage readings can only be determined with sophisticated electronic testing equipment. RPM must also be factored in to derive precise measurement terms. 14.7 volts is a more accurate value in most "typical" situations but even this number is not 100% accurate when describing precise alternator output because it can vary depending on voltage regulator performance and then there is ambient temperature to consider as well and finally battery condition if included in the test. I used 12 volts simply for discussion and not for scientific accuracy. In the overall equation for keeping the battery fully charged with enough amperage one must also consider battery reserve. If using a higher performance battery you can get away with a lower amperage output but for best charging results it is always best to have no draw on the battery, except for starting, for best battery life. But, many guys use lots of extra lights using the stock GL1200 charging system and never have a problem as long as the battery is good and they give the bike a good highway run or use a battery tender to keep the battery up. Light parade bikes not using LED's might be better off with 100 amp charging systems. Ideally more power is always better but anything equal to or better than stock GL1200 output will get the job done on a stock bike.

Anything more than you need to operate your electrics and charge your battery is wasted, so if a 35 alternator does that upgrading to a 55 or even 100 amp unit is not warranted.
Sometimes bigger is not necessarily better.

I wonder if you may be thinking of the mini denso (chrome) model that was talked about at one time.

This model is advertized as 30 Idle 50 Max, pretty well what the other Denso alternator does.

I would like to know if anyone is using it and how it actually performs.

The website: http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/d ... ators.html

It would require some alteration in the bracket though.

According to Tim Allen more power is always better wether you need it or not.

Al it would take Tricky is to bend one of the brackets or easier still just to put a spacer in between the alt & bracket. Also I believe the one I got ( I could not find ), has 55 amps. Mine also has a 3 prong plug @ the back.

This is the same alternator i originally used. (see my conversion post) I did indeed make a new bracket to accommodate the difference in the leg spacing. it's all there if anyone wants to chase it down. I later went to a larger unit because that one wouldn't charge at idle.

Refresh my memory bill, you're running a 5 inch crank pulley and you still could not get that alternator to charge at idle?