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How to change the front fork seals.
Hello fellas...

my bike doesn't hold air on the front fork, loses it in 10 minutes and blows oil.

my friend just brought me from USA this couple of "kits" with the part number : 51490-MN8-305 each bag contains a couple of big rings, i presume one is the dust seal and the other is the oil seal am i right?, he brought me a couple of bags of this kits with the same part number.

the big question.. i'd like to do it my self i love to do stuff my self. i have a few tools at my workshop and i wanna know any tips. like do i need to take the fairing off?, can i do this without removing the front forks off the bike? i heard there is a home made tool to compress the springs, anyone can give me a link to a pic of the tool? also. if rly needed can i remove the forks without removing the fairing?

another question.. is there any other part i will need or just the oil and dust seals??

Thanks in advance, ride safe!!!
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#1 11-08-2007, 06:02 PM,
<!-- m --><a class="postlink" href=""></a><!-- m -->
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#2 11-08-2007, 08:19 PM,
Is the oil mixed with the air on the goldwing fork setup? :oops:
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#3 11-09-2007, 10:03 AM,
William_86 Wrote:Is the oil mixed with the air on the goldwing fork setup? :oops:

It is a single chamber that both the oil and air go. So, technically, the air and oil are "mixed"
#4 11-09-2007, 11:46 AM,
is this the same as changing the 1100 fork seals?.. im sorry im confused and never did this before i just wanna make sure that i wont crew up something and i also dont wanna do something i dont need like.. disassembling the whole fork just for changing the oil and dust seals. i was watching a post on nakedgoldwings and they are installing the oil seal on the slider not on the fork tube o.o :oops:

[Image: forksealdriveaay6.jpg]
[Image: forksealdrivedy5.jpg]
those pics i think are from a a 1100 not sure but looks like the same

i have been reading the manual and the post that tricky made but is almost the same as my haynes service manual and it is a guide for FORK DISASSEMBLY i dont want to "disassembly 100% my forks just the needed to remplace my seals..

so please tell me if i am wrong.. after removing the wheel, fender, brace and brakes, drain the oil and air i only need to remove the bottom damper rod bolt? the guy from this site don't tell to remove the top cap and springs.
( <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href=""></a><!-- m --> ) do i need?

after removing the slider just change the seals and assembly everything in reverse of removal?...

please excuse me maybe im a bit stupid but for me the manuals make everything look rly complicated giving you lots of steps you can actually skip o.o

edit: by the way happy riding everyone Tongue
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#5 11-10-2007, 05:41 PM,
No you dont NEED to remove the whole fork, just be carefull to not damage the seal when putting the slider back on.

You have dis-assembled the forks, just left part on the bike.
Like I said I prefer to work on the bench thats why I take the whole fork off it's only another 6 bolts anyway.

You will still need to take the top caps off to replenish the oil.

I like to measure the oil level from the top of the slider when the forks are together without the springs in per progressive leaflet.

but you can measure the oil volume per manual. just make sure each leg gets the same amount.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#6 11-10-2007, 06:13 PM,
i can leave the cap alone untill i refill right?

how big deal is to get the legs off the bike 6 bolts without having to remove the fairing o.o
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#7 11-10-2007, 07:08 PM,
The lower ones are a little tight to get at but I dont take off the fairing when I remove the forks.
Dont forget the wheel and mudguard are out of the way.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#8 11-10-2007, 08:18 PM,
Assuming you have removed the wheel, fender, brakes, fork brace, etc., loosen the upper pinch bolt first then loosen the spring cap then loosen the bottom damper rod bolt then loosen the lower pinch bolts. You do not need to remove the fairing.

If you don't have a vice unscrew the caps while the tubes are in the bike with the lower pinch bolts tight be careful at the end because they tend to pop out so place a blanket on the false tank. Reinstall the caps the same way if you don't have a vice but you should mark the starting thread with a marker so that you will know where to push down and turn to start the threads.

Be extremely careful not to mark or scratch the chrome surface of the fork tubes otherwise you will have a leak.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of

#9 11-10-2007, 08:26 PM,
ok thanks i think im almost ready for doing this.. just a lil question xP

when i remove the damper bolt, and yank the tubes apart to force the oil seal and bushings the bushings will say on the fork tube right?, i will remove the A, B, C and D parts off the tube. those parts can be removed with the E and F inthe tube or those parts will have to be removed too?

[Image: forktubejo4.jpg]

my doubt is: after the slider has the ring, seal and retainer will the fork tube pass thru those parts with the bushins in?.. or i just drop the bushings in the slider and then install the parts i already named?.. i dont think thats the right way just want to make sure :oops:
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#10 11-10-2007, 10:21 PM,
Item F is kept in place on the fork tube, it sits in a recess, do not remove unless replacing.
As the fork slider is removed (with slamming motion) the slider bushing will push out the backup ring and seal.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#11 11-11-2007, 07:44 AM,
Forgot to mention that you need to have the bike on the center stand then you jack up the bike so that the front wheel is just off the ground before you remove the spring caps. If you do otherwise the spring caps will fly like little rockets.

Don't you just love Tricky's pics and diagrams. Big Grin
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of

#12 11-11-2007, 10:18 AM,
lets say i decice to take the fork tubes off.....

What will happen with the air hose and the rings that supply the air to the tubes?...

i dont want to damage those things cause i wont be able to find the o-rings if i need to remplace them.. i checked it for leaks and it was fine, i dont want to have another headache after geting my oil seals done.

the doubt i still have is about the bushings... ok when you are working on the bench with the tubes off.. you put the seals from the top of the tubes (from the cap side) and they just slide down.. but if im working with the tubes on the bike. i cant slide them from the top i dont know if the bushes are bigger than the tube as i show on the picture:

[Image: 27504898zw4.jpg]

is possible to slide the dust seal, oil seal and ring over the bushings?, without damaging any of those parts??

sorry to ask 2 much :oops:

when i get to work on this in this week ( i hope ) ill take as many pics as i can to make some kind of help for all of those newbie folks like me out there Tongue. im trying to gather all the info i can Big Grin
85' GL 1200 Interstate - My Picture Thread
[Image: signaturebg4.jpg]
#13 11-13-2007, 08:57 PM,
The manual suggests taking the forks off, figuring probably that while your there your going to do a good overhaul of the complete fork.

I have done my forks seals twice (200,000k) and the fork bushings once (last winter)

I have never done the seals without removing the whole unit.

Some say it can be done.

If you take the whole fork off then your worries about the seal passing over the bushings is over.

I think in an earlier post you said you were taking the fairing off to paint, that makes it all the easier.

I have yet to have any problems with the supply of air to the suspension after re-install. just smear a little oil on the top of the tubes as the slide back in.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

#14 11-14-2007, 07:23 AM,

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