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Anyone rebuilt master cylinders?
I just bought my first wing, an 86 Interstate showing 13K on the clock. As you can guess, this bike has been in storage a LOT. Changed plugs and oil, and the bike runs GREAT. After CAREFULLY taking it out for a test ride, I've been doing some reading to find out how to fix a few probs it has.

1) Rear brake control goes to the floor and will not pump up. Gotta fix this right away, as this is obviously not safe. I bled the rear brake, and there was no air in that system. Looks like the m/c is shot. Anyone rebuilt one? Any words of wisdom?

2) Clutch will not disengage. I think either the m/c or the slave is bad. However, there is no fluid leaking here, which makes me suspect the m/c more than the slave. Any help with diagnosis or repair here?

3) Fork oil is leaking like a sieve. Apparently this is a VERY common problem. Is there some way I can fix this that will be an upgraded (read more permanent) repair?

4) Also, after reading lots here and elsewhere...I am worried about this stator problem. Right now it is working fine, but I wonder if I need to upgrade this now? or just wait until I have a problem?

Edited cuz I caint spel...
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#1 04-15-2007, 08:42 PM,
1. When bleeding the rear brake you bleed the front right caliper first. It is a unified system. You may think it's bled but I think there is air in the system.
2 Bleed the system the clutch is a pain. place some rags under the clutch lever to keep fluid off the paint and crack open the banjo nut any air in the system will bleed out. Cant see it being the MC but then again these bikes prefer to be ridden rather than being stored.
3 Fork oil... replace seals I dont think this is a common problem, I have almost 200,000k and replaced the seals twice. this last time only because I was changing the bushings in the forks and it's not smart to reuse a seal.
4 I don't think it is an immediate problem taking the mileage of the bike into consideration. I would remove the plug on the three yellow wires at the left side of the battery. While your at it replace the main 30 amp fuse with a weather proof automotive style spade fuse.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 04-16-2007, 07:27 AM,
Okiebryan Wrote:2) Clutch will not disengage. I think either the m/c or the slave is bad. However, there is no fluid leaking here, which makes me suspect the m/c more than the slave. Any help with diagnosis or repair here?

I recently had this clutch issue. I think all I needed to do was to replace the fluid and bleed the clutch. After replacing the fluid I attempted to bleed the clutch. Everywhere I read how hard bleeding the clutch on the 1200 was, but when I couldn't get any pressure I first rebuilt the clutch m/c. When that didn't work I rebuilt the clutch slave cylinder. Still no luck, so then I found the trick.

What finally allowed me to bleed the clutch was to turn the handlebars ALL the way to the right, therefore putting the chambers of the clutch master cylinder at their highest point.

As soon as I did that and started the standard bleeding proceedure ( i.e. slowly depress the clutch lever ) without opening the bleeder valve, bubbles started to come out of the tiny hole in the forward part of the clutch master cylinder. I probably did between 50 and 100 or more repetitions tapping the banjo connector about every 10 depressions.

That got my clutch working again, but to be sure I placed a small 3/4" thick piece of wood between the clutch lever and the grip and wrapped a velcro strap around to hold it in that position overnight with the handlebars still turned ALL the way to the right.

The next morning I burped one more bubble out and since then all has been well.

I really don't believe I needed to rebuild either the master or slave on hindsight, but neither was a very difficult task. You need a really long nosed pair of snap ring pliers for the master cylinder though if you are going to install a kit in it.
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#3 04-17-2007, 03:34 PM,
The best way I found to bleed brakes on the GL is with a vacuum pump with one of the cheapy self bleeding brake bleeder bottle kits. They are relatively inexpensive but make bleeding soooooooo easy.

Howard Idea
Howard & Sharon Sims-GWRRA#259911
EX 1986 Aspencade
EX 2002 GL-1800

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#4 04-20-2007, 04:20 PM,
I second that opinion on the little bleeder bottle. If you first look at it you'll think, this can never work. It is fantastic for brakes & clutches.
Don't hesitate to give it a try. Only about $7.00 at advanced auto!
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#5 04-23-2007, 04:01 AM,
If you have access to a Harbor Freight store or online they have a vacuum brake kit including the pump and vacuum jar for less than $17.
Current: GL1100 GL1500 Previous: GL1200SEI
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#6 04-29-2007, 10:24 PM,
Before I was given my bikes they had set up for almost 2 years. The 85I's
clutch would not release either. I first thought it was the M/C and got the kit to rebuild it from the dealer. It was easy, except the hard lesson learned about brake fluid & paint, still I had to take the slave cylinder off and free up the piston. Still I had to bleed the banjo at the master cylinder and that did the trick. I look at all the work I end up doing, even if I find out that it was not really necessary, as a good learning curve. Been a long time since I was in school!!
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#7 05-01-2007, 04:31 PM,


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