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Intercom clicking noise
Ed It is a common problem with the intercom.
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#16 08-21-2009, 11:01 AM,
Here are the results of the testing:

After I installed the older driving lights, the clicking noise disappeared when the lights were on.

From this discussion and those found on Saunders forum, I feel that grounding is the main problem with the intercom. The extra lights do two things: 1) They consume excess power from the stator that does not have to be shunted to ground by the voltage regulator. 2) They provide an additional ground path within the electrical system.

So now my question is; What happens to the noise if I clean all of the ground connections (or at least the main ones, i.e. regulator, motor mount, ignition...)? Time to clean the ground contact points.

Thanks for all your valuable input. ^Smile^
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#17 08-28-2009, 12:00 PM,
I used to get some clicking noise on my bike as well.. Turned out to be the boom on the wifes helmet mic... Had to work it back and forth several times to get it to stop... Found it when I turned the intercom dial (on the radio) all the way down the noise would stop... Turn it up and the noise would get loader... How ever mine didn't change with engine RPM as did yours...
I found well worth the time to search out every single wiring plug and ground connection and clean/lube them all... The bike has had no electrical issues over the past 3 years since doing so and it even fixed a few things too... I also cleaned and lubed all the switches at the time...
Ed Zogg
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#18 08-29-2009, 09:09 AM,
Ed, Tricky

I went through all of the electrical plugs this spring cleaning them, sealing the backs with silicon and using dielectric grease on the sides to help prevent new contamination. Several of the plugs had contamination. I recheck the grounds and they too were clean.

This weekend, I made Tricky’s presented ground harness without the capacitors and this did not solve the problem. But I may have discovered the cause. I think my voltage regulator is going south. At one time I had a voltage across the battery terminals of 15.2 VDC which is too high even if charging. I believe we should not see anything greater that 14.7 VDC.

A second discovery was made during an extended ride this weekend. I notice that the clicking sound went away after I had to sit at an extended stop. Sitting with the bike at idle and all systems on pulled down the battery such that it took about 4 minutes to bring it back to full charge. During the time the system was recharging, the noise went away. Then as the charge was completed the noise came back, slowly increasing in volume and frequency of clicks. All this happened at normal cursing RPMs of around 3100. I was able to hear this and see this via the onboard voltage meter. Very interesting.

So I think it's best to look for a new rectifier/regular. $-) Do you guys know of any aftermarket ones that you would recommend. I don't think Honda provides any new OEMs anymore.

Thanks,
Brian
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#19 08-31-2009, 01:59 PM,
I've been following this post for awhile. There are a lot of assumptions that just aren't correct.
I don't know what "path to ground" is suppose to mean. Shunting of the regulator isn't normally a cause either.
The reason you have a clicking noise is because of voltage "spikes". These spikes are caused by the switching that occurs when relays, transistors and other various loads go open, then close. The voltage simply has nowhere to go. Or can't get there fast enough.
By adding lights, you increase the load, providing the excess a "path to ground" as you call it.
When the battery is at a lower state of charge (idling for five minutes?) the battery has a slightly larger storage capacity, thus absorbing the spikes.
There a lot of components that "switch". The coils, the spark plugs, relays, and to a lesser degree, the scr's in the regulator.
Capacitors and resistors are built into most systems to prevent these spikes from becoming an annoyance. The '87 finally got a "line filter" in the radio circuit. See if you can find one on ebay or if they are still available fron the dealer. Or try a condenser on the feed line for the coils, or check your plug gap/plug condition. Anyone ever hear the term "resistor" plugs?
As far as you regulator goes, try putting battery voltage directly to the black sensing wire at the regulator, and see if the voltage to the battery cuts back. You may not need a regulator
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#20 08-31-2009, 06:02 PM,
If you do need a regulator try here: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/">http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/</a><!-- m -->
1985 Limited Edition
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#21 08-31-2009, 08:55 PM,
glhonda,

My rectifier/regulator connectors are in good shape so I don't want to cut them out of the circuit if I don't have too.

Would you recommend using a splice connector to tap into the black battery sense wire, or cut this wire - feed it directly to the battery + terminal and then repair after testing.

At $105 for a new aftermarket retifier/regulator I want to be sure it's bad before I shell out the cash.

Thanks guys for your continued input. ^Smile^
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#22 09-01-2009, 10:02 AM,
You don't have to cut anything. Leave everything connected and back probe the black wire with a very small screw driver, or a pin. Take a length of wire from the positive battery post to the pin and see if the charging voltage drops.
14.0-14.4 would be reasonable.
Use this method for testing only. If it corrects the condition, a mod will be needed. Don't leave the black wire hot to the battery.
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#23 09-01-2009, 11:33 AM,
Well Guys,

I finially got around to testing the regulator and it works fine. The problem is, of course, within the electrical connectors. Following glhonda's advice, I was able to determine that there is enough voltage drop accross all of the connectors along the regulators voltage sense wire (black) that when the test lead is on the black wire from the battery, the regulator delivers 14.7 volts. With the test lead disconnected from the black wire, the voltage jumps to 15.25 volts. So I need to clean the connectors more, but which ones would be helpfull.

Sadly, I think I damage my CDI. I turned off the key switch with the test lead still connected to the black lead. To my surprise, the bike keep on running. When I disconnected the test lead, the engine quit with a back fire. Now the bike will not start. This is a real bummer because the CDI is not cheap. A word to the wise. Disconnect the test lead before turning off your bike.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
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#24 09-21-2009, 07:05 PM,
You shouldn't be surprised that the bike stayed running. You were supplying battery voltage through the black wire (ignition system) and it was essentially backfeeding into all the ignition circuits.
What does surprise me, is that it won't start. I'm at a loss to explain the backfire, but I don't see how you could have done any damage probing power at that wire.
See if you have spark. Possibly the backfire "dislodged" dirt in the cabs and you have a fuel issue? I know the cdi is "magical", but cdi's don't often fail.
Make sure everything else is correct first.
Double check your fuses, maybe something just popped.
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#25 09-22-2009, 06:49 AM,
Well the CDI is shot. I removed the plugs and grounded them in sets to check for spark. There was an occasional spark but not consistant. So I am off to flea-bay for a replacement. B-(
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#26 09-24-2009, 05:59 AM,


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