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Left Caliper is leaking
My left caliper seems to be leaking, very little but I know it will be more soon. Is there much difficulty rebuilding the caliper and does any one have any suggestion? :cry:


Thanks
Tony Cefalu
Metairie Louisiana
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#1 08-23-2012, 05:23 PM,
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Not a hard job, keeping the fluid changed and clean will go a long way to having calipers stay in good condition.

I buy my parts at my local Honda dealer, I do know you can buy them elswhere, what the quality is like I wouldnt know
The only stupid questions are the one's that are not asked.

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#2 08-23-2012, 05:51 PM,
I used the K&L Rebuild Kits purchased from Filterkingonline on EBay (38.00 each), I have no complaints about them and the seller was very fast at getting them to me.
Vegetarian: Old Indian word for Bad Hunter

[Image: VisitedStatesMap.jpg]
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#3 08-23-2012, 06:11 PM,
Clean and check again to make sure it is not the left fork seal first.
Perhaps tying a rag around the fork seal and then bouncing it or going for a ride would be a good way to check it too.

Some time ago I thought my differential was leaking but it turned out to be a leaking rear shock.

Likewise a leaking clutch slave cylinder turned out to be a stator wire plug leaking on the rear case.

Sometimes it is not the most obvious item that is actually the problem.
'RIDE TO BE SEEN' :d

Most common quote from a cager after killing a motorcyclist.

"I never saw him" instead of "I never looked for him".
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#4 08-23-2012, 07:17 PM,
goldwingrider Wrote:My left caliper seems to be leaking, very little but I know it will be more soon. Is there much difficulty rebuilding the caliper and does any one have any suggestion? :cry:

The biggest difficulty you'll run into is cleaning out the corrosion from the seal grooves. Use something soft like sharpened aluminum or plastic else if you use a steel cleaning tool you could end up damaging the seal grooves. Also, if the pistons are stuck in the caliper (while on the bench) you can use a grease fitting in place of the bleeder and use grease in a grease gun to remove the pistons. Get one piston out most of the way by pumping the grease gun then clamp it so it cannot move while you move the other piston out. You can also use the master cylinder in the manner as long as you have the hydraulics connected and working.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#5 08-23-2012, 07:24 PM,
I just drop a thin piece of wood between the pistons and the housing and pop them out with the blow gun on my air compressor using the bleeder hole. I still jump every time they pop!
1986 SEi Limited Edition. 1985 Aspencade
If it's not broke, I can fix that!
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#6 08-23-2012, 11:43 PM,
Using air definitely works if the pistons aren't seized in the bores, but, as you mentioned the air can propel the pistons violently if they are not seized so be extremely careful if using compressed air to move the pistons, otherwise you can be hurt or the pistons can be damaged if they strike a cement floor.
Ed (Vic) Belanger - 1954-2015
Founder of gl1200goldwings.com

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#7 08-24-2012, 02:30 AM,
I use several boards and work them out because like you say they can pop out violently! Dripping a little brake fluid around the seals and letting them sit for a hour before attempting seems to help too.
1986 SEi Limited Edition. 1985 Aspencade
If it's not broke, I can fix that!
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#8 08-24-2012, 08:18 AM,
unionjack Wrote:Clean and check again to make sure it is not the left fork seal first.
Perhaps tying a rag around the fork seal and then bouncing it or going for a ride would be a good way to check it too.

Some time ago I thought my differential was leaking but it turned out to be a leaking rear shock.

Likewise a leaking clutch slave cylinder turned out to be a stator wire plug leaking on the rear case.

Sometimes it is not the most obvious item that is actually the problem.

I am glad you said a rag and not a diaper! ~O)
enjoying the view from the saddle....... due mainly to the people and information found within this site
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#9 08-24-2012, 03:43 PM,


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