Thread Rating:
  • 2 Vote(s) - 4 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
New electrical modifications
During the winter I finally purchased a Drag Specialties chrome lighted bumper off of EBay. It's in real good condition, only some slight pitting. I took it completely apart, rewired, new blubs, and replaced all hardware with stainless steel. The new addition matches the light modifications I did to the trunk bumper.

The old battery didn't fair well over the winter so I installed an Odyssey PC-680. Since I was replacing the battery I did some electrical modifications to the routing of the positive battery cabling. I had various connections at the positive terminal and I wanted to neaten it up. I found a power distribution block that works great. From the main center stud I put in a new cable to the battery. There are eight screws to mount any positive battery connections. I mounted the block in the area where the starter solenoid was originally mounted. Bolted it to the plastic section behind the gas tank and in front of the rear tire. I then moved the electronic box that was below the solenoid to up and under the seat. I cut off the bracket that was holding the electronic box to make room for the solenoid.

Here are some photo's of the distribution block and the bumper in daytime and nighttime.


Attached Files
.jpg   power dist.jpg (Size: 289.22 KB / Downloads: 79)
.jpg   IMG_1013 (600x800).jpg (Size: 221.52 KB / Downloads: 101)
.jpg   IMG_1024 (800x600).jpg (Size: 294.58 KB / Downloads: 77)
.jpg   IMG_1022 (800x600).jpg (Size: 235.85 KB / Downloads: 76)
[Image: VisitedProvincesMap.jpg]
[Image: VisitedStatesMap_zps8229ee64.jpg]
Reply
#1 04-15-2013, 09:50 PM,
Very Nice!
That cleanly addresses the areas I was thinking would be my next projects.
My Parts look good today but essentially I was planning on preventing issues later by changing that area now with some necessary upgrades.

Do you recall where you got that Distribution Block?
That is the second time I have seen it but can't recall who makes it.
Andy
Silver 1984 Interstate
GWRRA WAO
Reply
#2 04-16-2013, 08:18 AM,
What .... you couldn't get any lights above the Aspencade bar?
Reply
#3 04-16-2013, 10:57 AM,
Very nicely done! I would also like to know where you found the Distribution Block.

Did come across this article on another DIY power distribution block...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
Charlie
1992 GL1500 SE
[Image: Visited.jpg]
Reply
#4 04-16-2013, 09:28 PM,
Yes I do have the web address for the power distribution block, it's Wiring Products. I forgot to mention, the three wires, bright yellow, light yellow, and green are for the dog-bone fuse conversion to ATC type spade fuse. The fuse can be seen in the bright yellow wire.

(04-16-2013, 09:28 PM)Chas Wrote: Very nicely done! I would also like to know where you found the Distribution Block.

Did come across this article on another DIY power distribution block...

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

I already have a fuse block via a relay installed. That wire plus more were piling up on my positive battery terminal looking really shoddy. This power distribution block is just a way to tidy up the battery connection. The positive battery cable is secured to the center stud and now all my other connections each have a separate screw for mounting. Notice I now have only the battery cable at the battery.
[Image: VisitedProvincesMap.jpg]
[Image: VisitedStatesMap_zps8229ee64.jpg]
Reply
#5 04-17-2013, 06:55 PM,
Did a couple more modifications. The larger mudflap with two triangle lights mounted way too low and not only scraped going out drive ways it was real stiff and when I hit small bumps it jammed the mudflap. So I fabricated a way to put my old smaller mudflap back on with a chromed LED lamp. Much better got about three inches more clearance. Then I added another single red lamp on each side/front of the trunk bumper.


Attached Files
.jpg   IMG_1029 (800x600).jpg (Size: 326.16 KB / Downloads: 30)
[Image: VisitedProvincesMap.jpg]
[Image: VisitedStatesMap_zps8229ee64.jpg]
Reply
#6 04-22-2013, 07:54 PM,
my biggest concern is what was once pretty much a hard connection of the battery to the solenoid is now essentially a non-fused connection from the battery to that post that should a short occur would present itself as a huge short directly to ground

understand the reasoning to remove connections at the battery but since the ato fuse mod has been done,the extra connections could have easily been placed onto the positive side of the solenoid terminal and would have been a safer mod.....imho
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
Reply
#7 04-24-2013, 09:57 AM,
(04-24-2013, 09:57 AM)neoracer Wrote: my biggest concern is what was once pretty much a hard connection of the battery to the solenoid is now essentially a non-fused connection from the battery to that post that should a short occur would present itself as a huge short directly to ground

understand the reasoning to remove connections at the battery but since the ato fuse mod has been done,the extra connections could have easily been placed onto the positive side of the solenoid terminal and would have been a safer mod.....imho

Actually this set up is the same as if having everything mounted at the positive battery terminal. Look at my photo's above. I now have a cable going from the positive battery post to the main mounting stud of the power-block. This now makes the power-block an extended per se positive battery terminal. The six o'clock position has the original positive battery cable from the solenoid. All fuses are still inline and working. At the 12 o'clock position is the external alternator cable and it's fused. Two of the other connections are the additional fuse box and my Electrical Connection's coil modification, both are relayed and fused separately. One other connection is my digital voltmeter. I spent the time to make sure there is reasonable clearance at the power-block. That's why the solenoid is mounted lower and the electronic box that was mounted below the solenoid has been relocated to under the seat and it's bracket removed. My goal was to tidy up the amount of connections at the battery. This I've found to be an excellent solution. There is now only one cable at the positive battery terminal.

(04-16-2013, 10:57 AM)1060dsl Wrote: What .... you couldn't get any lights above the Aspencade bar?

LOL, actually I did add some more lamps. The mudflap with two triangle lights was too big, too low and too stiff. Every bump it jammed the flap to the pavement. So I used a smaller mudflap mounting a single LED lamp to it. Then I added two single lamps to each front/side of the trunk bumper.


Attached Files
.jpg   IMG_1029 (800x600).jpg (Size: 326.16 KB / Downloads: 19)
[Image: VisitedProvincesMap.jpg]
[Image: VisitedStatesMap_zps8229ee64.jpg]
Reply
#8 04-24-2013, 04:30 PM,
Here is a pic of where my triangle lights are mounted, in case you want to add them back! I have thought of wiring them into the blinkers --- just seems like they look like turn indicators to me.


Attached Files
.jpg   GL1200_rear1.jpg (Size: 231.9 KB / Downloads: 21)
Charlie
1992 GL1500 SE
[Image: Visited.jpg]
Reply
#9 04-24-2013, 08:14 PM,
found another source for a power distribution block,appears same and looks like it comes with a cover for the main power in cable
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/...rchID=4005
1987 Aspencade 129K
1986 SEI 93K
2014 Tri-Glide HD 17K

Hancock,MD
Reply
#10 04-25-2013, 07:37 AM,
I am extending the cooling fan power wires so the rad can come out a ways, then unplug the fan, using both of the hands...


Reply
#11 04-26-2013, 03:47 AM,


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Contact Us | GL1200 GOLDWINGS | Return to Top | | Lite (Archive) Mode | RSS Syndication
google-site-verification: googled4b4fe31e07b65d8.html